Ya, I doubt there is any serious damage!

The engine ate it!!  ( that’s what the knocking sound was)  I’m assuming any potential damage it could do is already done so I’m going to continue running it unless something turns up.

It actually cuts off the idle air bypass circuit, restricting the air to the engine ,slowing it down to prevent run-on. 

Getting back to the Carb on the air cooled VW  the idle cut solenoid ( anti=dieseling)  only cuts the fuel off to the low speed circuit in the carb,  it has no effect on fuel percolating into the hot engine after shutdown. see these pictures  Note from Paul: I cleaned this up by making the “see these pictures” the link instead of that very lon…[Read more]

If you do it post the progress.  I have bought most of the parts required to do a conversion including a fuel injected engine from a 1975 beetle but my car is running so good I don’t want to monkey with it!  At least it was until today. (See other post)

Nice Wheels though!!

Maybe try operating it without the thermostat until you prove that the engine is in good condition?   I own a 2012 Subaru Outback and am somewhat familiar with how it works. Thermostats on the suction side are a lot more trouble to get purged properly!  I am a heavy duty mechanic at my day job so have considerable experience making things work. (…[Read more]

Shouldn’t be that hard to get the air out. Are you sure you have the water flowing the right way through the rad?  Unless there is a compression leak putting air into the system it should burp itself once you get the engine block totally full.  Have you tried running it without the rad cap on? sometimes they need to operate without any b…[Read more]

Like BDriver wrote,  Another thing, you should not be using straight anti-freeze!  This is another place where more isn’t better. 50/50 cools much better and flows better in your system too.

Maybe some of these bulbs http://www.ebay.ca/itm/380797165478?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649Along with these pigtails http://www.ebay.ca/itm/151269242509?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649And make my own lights?

Mine has two bulb sockets exposed in the inside fender. ( separate bulb of the signal light and the combination tail/stop light.  The above unit doesn’t have the separate signal light so requires a “converter” to make it work. 

Like George said,    Get that engine out, you’ll be glad you did! I can hardly imagine getting it back together with no leaks otherwise!

I converted my 1970 vw 1600sp to doghouse cooling. worked very well! reduced the engine temps to well under 160 even on hot days. before I was running upwards of 225 with my oil light nice and bright at idle!    The donor engine I use happened to be a 1975 fuel injected rig so I got the “vortex ring” as well! I don’t know how much effect IT has.  

That should be edscreations.blogspot.ca

I have an electric recumbent trike that I built a few years ago. you can see some pictures of it here  edscreations.blogspot.com 

There’s gotta be lots of tractor rads that would fit in there. multiple core and rad cap in the middle on most too!  I’ll do a little research there!

on my fiberfab I get into the steering links at about 19″. and I don’t want the rad right at the top either.  Do you think airflow will be a problem?  Looks to me like it would be far better than the poor air-cooled gets at the back!

They are listed in the ad, scroll down,  14.5″ x 16.5″ x 1.75″    Comes complete with fan etc.

  I found another one that is 18.5″ high, http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1992-1993-1994-1995-1996-2000-Honda-Civic-Radiator-2-ROW-MT-28mm-Inlet-outlet-/200976674973?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb24b09d&vxp=mtr It might work but getting qui…[Read more]

Thanks Paul!  I’ll have to learn how to do that!!

I think this radiator will fit quite well in my Fiberfab!  

PMOSSBERG2013-10-21 11:57:40