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Just wanted to share that I did successfully sell my MG TD Chevette to a local young guy. He’s a bit of a tinkerer and I’m hoping he enjoys working on it as much as I have. I made him a deal at $4,000. Including a brand new top and like-new tonneau cover that have never been installed.
I then spent a week searching the internet for my next toy. Found, travelled 236 miles, and bought a 2002 BMW Z3 3.0i Roadster with only 23,331 miles on it. The car has mostly lived indoors and looks and drives like brand new. I am one lucky guy. Now all that I’ve got to come to terms with is the cost of owning a BMW!!! Two dealer supplied replacement key w/remotes cost me $440…! Ouch. Oil change and a set of front brake pads – $272. Double Ouch. Looks like I’m destined to have a DIY BMW…
The one shining grace is that now my wife and I will feel at ease about taking long excursions with the new car.
-Hawk521
Responses on my Craigslist ad have been slower than I had hoped.
I got a PayPal purchase scam offer within hours of posting it – from a guy who claimed he was off-shore as a marine biologist and wanted to buy it sight unseen for his son. His plan was to PayPal me more than I was asking so that I could pay cash to his “agent” when she picked up the car. Just Google PayPal Craigslist scam and you’ll find the many ways they work. I offered that he should PayPal the funds to his trusted ‘agent’ and have her bring cash to pick up the car. Even offered to meet her at Town Hall so we could get the title transfered. He got a bit testy with me at the end when I wouldn’t bite on his terms.Also got a “cash now” offer of 2000. Heck, I’d buy it again for 2000. Had to reply with no thanks.If it sells it sells. If not I’ll wait a while and sell.Building it was the most fun I’ve had in a long time. Not sure I’d be up to building another though. 🙂Hey
Paul,When I think back 6 years I realize that I have truely enjoyed this car. And I realize now that I spent more hours working on it than I ever did driving it. So most of my enjoyment has been building the car!
She is fun to drive. But the wife says that if I want a toy vehicle it needs to be a bit more practical for longer trips that she wants to take. One where we don’t have to worry about weather so much. I’m thinking a 2000ish BMW Z3 (or better yet an M) Roadster. Time will tell if that happens.
I just wanted you guys to know that although some of us don’t post a lot on the board (reluctant to show our ignorance maybe), that the information out here has been most helpful over the years.
And I can’t go without mentioning Mr. Rick Drake (rdchevette@gmail.com) who helped me with so many Chevette questions and assorted bits and pieces that I’d never have gotten the car running nearly so well without his help.
John
I’ve never even seen the computer for my car. The wiring harness has a connector that I presume is meant for the computer, but the connector is simply tied up (unused) under the dash. The computer on these cars was not an integral part of the engine’s operating needs. I think it basically took the O2 sensor (also not installed on my car) and used that to calculate the added air to be injected into the exhaust manifold. If you get rid of all that stuff the engine is as happy as any pre-computer engines were.
Call Rick Drake in Everette, Washington. 800 247-2954. He is the worlds foremost authority on Chevettes. If you Google “Rick Drake” and CHevette you will undoubtedly get a lot of hits. He’s helped a LOT of kit car builders including yours truly. Rick is an easy going guy and he helped me more than I can convey. The wiring harness in my car came from Rick – as did my steering column. My carburetor, shift knob, and a few other pieces also. I followed several of his suggestions – including replacing the front brake calipers with later year model to get more gripping power. My engine is from an 87 CHevette but my front suspension was from an 81. Rick helped figure that stuff out.
GOod luck with yours. Shoot me an email john (at) mcdermon (dot) com and I’ll be happy to help with anything I can.
My CMC MGTD has an ’87 Chevette engine. The computer was never installed after the engine transplant. In fact, as the car was partially assembled when I bought it in 2008 I never even saw a computer.
I also eliminated the emission air pump that feeds air into the exhaust manifold. And I got rid of numerous unnecessary plumbing pieces on and around the manifold. I also replaced the carburetor (mine was from a car with A/C) with a simpler version from a non-A/C car to eliminate some additional plumbing related to the A/C. These things simplied a lot for me and my little MG runs like a smooth sewing machine.
FWIW my car was titled (in NC) as a 2009 “Custom” upon completion and several long discussions with the NC DOT. That designation exempts the vehicle from having to meet EPA emissions standards. So while that isn’t as cute as the “MG TD Replica” title designation I had originally asked for – it has worked out well in the end. And the engine compartment is a lot less cluttered than it would be otherwise.
Check your state DOT regulations before eliminating the computer. It may be that the way your car is titled may make a difference.
I can attest that the engine computer is NOT necessary to run this engine pretty darn well in these little cars.
Good luck.
Geoff,
My memory is foggy on this (and many other things! lol), but I seem to recall that there is a wiring connection on the top side of the engine (in the area between the carb and the valve cover.) It may relate to energizing some of the EPA equipment. But it must be connected to relay power to the coil.
Good luck. If I get time I’ll research it some more. Post what you find for future owners… 🙂
Thanks Mark – good info.
I’ve not bothered our friend Rick Drake on this one. He’s done so much for me that I’m trying to handle it myself. A buddy at work brought me a pair of spring isolators from a 4 cyl Mustang that visually look like they may fit. I’ll have to pull the spring again (I had put it back together in a rush so the wife could drive the car and forgot to measure it while I had it out.)
Not a big deal either way. And I do have a bit of left over heater hose of various sizes that could be put to use! Good thinking. 🙂
Thanks Ringo, I’ve emailed Jegs to see if they have info on which size I need to order. Worst case I’ll pull mine again and measure them like I should have done last time! 🙂
Geoff,
My PVC valve (the plastic elbow) was badly cracked and I was having similar issues with both a surging idle and occassional momentary loss of power at 2000-3000 rpm. Replaced the PVC valve (along with the cracked plastic elbow) and it immediately smoothed out and ran like it should. Replacement cost was about $2.
Good luck. And let us know what it turns out to be.
Hawk52140091.6965509259
James is spot on with regards to the quality of this handle. And for just under $8 it cannot be beat. My local Northerntool didn’t carry them, but I was able to buy it online and have it shipped to the store without any shipping charges.
One more item bites the dust on my to-do list.
James it sounds like I’m plowing the same ground you did. I build my seat mount boxes 1″ lower than the original fiberglass ones but it isn’t yet low enough. I’m going to lower it another 1 1/2″ this time with the back side even lower. Tilting the seat back has really helped comfort for driver and passenger.
I ordered the Norther Tool handle. If you pick ’em up at the store they don’t charge shipping. I called the local store to see if they had them in stock, but they don’t. Mine should get here in 5-10 working days!
Oh well – there’s plenty of other stuff to do.
I hate that I missed out on the JC Whitney 1/2 off sale over Memorial Day. I meant to order one of the Retrosound Model One radios for the car – but kept putting it off until I realized it was past the sale date. This radio will fit the cutout in my dash and has a bonus feature of supporting MP3 files on a USB memory stick. I might wait until they go on sale again as they’re pricey ($279) at full retail. Moss sells them for $249 but that’s still high for my budget.
– John
There is a Northern Tools about 30 miles from here. Will try to get by and see if they have one in stock.
James – as you’ve apparently seen these in person can you advise if they’re as smooth on the unseen side as they appear to be on the top surface? If so I may well go that way…
The marine source has stainless steel grab rails that have only a single mount stud on each end. Again, its hard to make a value judgement on these things unless you can handle them first.
Thanks for the feedback. And Larry, now that we got the upholstery work done the seats and backrest have a bit of depression to help hold us in the seats. Feels a lot better. I’m planning to lower the seats a bit – as I’m weary of looking right through the top edge of the windshield frame.
Lots to do this weekend.
It is Painless PN 10101.
I think that means it is for the GM column.
Will throw in a foot activated dimmer switch that I had
purchased intending to use but since my column operated
dimmer turned out to work fine I didn’t use the floor
mounted one.
******** SOLD 9-17-09 ********
Hawk52140073.5974074074
One thing I meant to contribute regarding the MG Magic wire wheels. They are TUBELESS. Although they are true wire wheels – the manufacturer has installed a sealed band inside the hub that separates the spoke holes from the inner hub space where the tire mounts. I was skeptical at first – but all 5 tires have held air properly for about 9 months now. Of course you could put tubes in them I guess – but I don’t think that’s necessary – and might not even be a good idea.
Brad does have several different wheels for different hubs. Mine bolted right up to the oem Chevette hubs with no problem.
Larry
It was a pleasure to meet you and Becky on this beautiful day. And I appreciate the chance to look over the two really great MG TD replicas in your stable. As a relative newcomer to the replica car world it is always helpful to see how things have been done on some of the nicer cars. Mark’s PinkMG is certainly an eye catcher. I plan to take some ideas on upholstery with me to the uphosterer and at least give him some ideas of what he needs to try to accomplish. I’ll leave the details of how to do it to him. He’s highly regarded in the car restoration business and I will trust him to do a great job.
Was very proud of my little MG today. She made the longest trip of her young life ~110 miles – and showed no signs of stress or any problems. The drive was splendid and my wife enjoyed her turn to drive so much I’d hear her giggling when she pulled out of a few sweeping curves on the road home.
My next big step is upholstery and carpet. With luck I’ll finish my prep work this weekend and get it to the upholstery shop next week.
I appreciate all the guidance. Looking at the side curtains I received it would appear they are designed to fit on the windshield frame sides in an identical manner to the top edge. There are three pieces of lexan (1/8″ x 1/2″) with one piece the width of the windshield and the other two the height. The leading edge of the side curtains have pockets to hold these lexan strips just as the top has a pocket to hold the long piece.
I’m a while away from being ready to actually mount the top. Got to get the carpet and upholstery finalized first. Just trying to get my plan together.
All the advice is helpful and much appreciated.
Thank you one and all. 🙂
Brian,
I’m not too far away in Rural Hall, NC 10 miles north of Winston-Salem. About 80 miles or so from Hickory.
I bought my replica MG TD last October – a Chevette based CMC kit that has had several prior owners. I bought it partially assembled. It had the basic running gear, but the body was not fully assembled, nor did it have any useable wiring or lights. I spent the winter reworking things and got it titled and on the road just a month ago.
I’ve not yet considered driving it as far as Hickory – and I’d have to find the back road route if I ever drive it that way. Mine will run 70+ mph – but the steering is a bit twitchy at speed and I’d be worn out after an hour or more on the interstate.
If you ever plan a trip toward Winston-Salem, shoot me an email at john@mcdermon.com before you head out. The wife and I are around home most of the time on weekends.
-john
Dan,
Not terribly close to Cherokee. But I’ve been nearby in Maggie Valley now and then on my motorcycle. I live in Rural Hall, NC (10 miles north of Winston-Salem).
The tranny issue cleared up when I added some tranny fluid.
Only operational issue at the moment is how cold natured the engine is. Until it warms up (5 minutes or so) it stalls immediately if I put it in gear (automatic). After its warmed up it does fine. Likely some carb or choke adjustment will fix this – I just haven’t had time to fiddle with it yet.
Still have some goodies to bolt on the car – but the essentials are all in place and she’s fun to drive. I’d say that I’ve successfully “replicated” the harsh, squeaky, raw ride of an original 1952 MG TD! lol
I don’t think my ‘TD is up for a trip to Cherokee though. I’d have to take the backroads and that’d turn the 400 mile round trip into an overnighter. I might could venture as far west as Hickory one weekend though…
Larry and Betty Murphy a kit car(s) in nearby Reidsville, NC. I hope to get over his way one weekend to have a look at his cars.
Still havin’ fun.
John McDermon
336 969-0766 days
O’Reilly’s had a Monroe 555001 shock what put my suspension pretty much in the middle of its 4 inch travel. Mounted them today and no more harsh bottoming out. Hurray!
One more item checked off the list. Only real question is whether I’ll outlive the todo list on this lil car. 🙂
Pulled a rear shock off this evening. At the normal “ride height” the shock rests at 10 inches (between the base of the stem at each end of the shock). Fully collapsed the shock measures 9 inches.
Thus, there is only 1 inch of compression travel before the shock bottoms out solidly. This is the hard BUMP I’ve been feeling on modest undulations in the roadway.
At least one of two things is true. Either the original builder put the wrong shocks on it. Or he didn’t mount the shocks as they were intended to be mounted. Or both. Each end of the shock appeared to be mounted securely with a pair of rubber bushings with metal caps. But I’m not even sure the correct shocks utilized a stem mount on the top AND bottom. Or do they?
My shocks are the ‘stem type’ on both ends. They are stamped with a part number of LE10006 and another number PF15T1E. Collapsed length 9 inches. Fully extended 14 inches.
I’m hunting on the internet for a similarly designed shock that is no longer than 8 inches when fully collapsed. 7 1/2 would be even better. I’d like to get at least 2 to 2 1/2 inches of compression before it bottoms out. If I _have_ to I’ll rework the frame and lower mount to extend the travel of these shocks. But that’s a LOT of work for someone w/o a real shop.
Does anyone out here happen to have one of the correct CMC Chevette rear shocks that you could measure for comparison? I need the distance between the base of the stem at top and bottom ends when the shock is fully compressed. Ignore the mount bushings. Or if the shock doesn’t have a stem mount on each end, what does it have?
At least I know what’s wrong. Now to find the best solution I can afford! 🙂
Does anyone know a current shock PN (Koni adjustable would be really great) that are bolt-in fits for the CMC Chevette MG TD?
I’ll be happy to be among the first to try them in this application if I can be reasonably sure I’m buying the right ones.
Anyone have a modern cross reference for the CMC specified TRS 80802 shocks? Or maybe the specs (dimensions) of those?
Dan,
Unfortunately for me, a prior builder of this car sealed up the spare tire cover with fiberglass. It makes it tight – but certainly inhibits access to the things under that cover.
I’ll sort it out sooner or later. And meanwhile I’ll use the trip odometer to handle fuel needs.
Thanks to all who’ve contributed.
Measured my tank today and it is the same size as Rich’s tank. 12 gallons.
My gauge was not initially wired and the gauge read below empty. When I hooked up the gauge it read about 1/4 tank. But after a fillup it still reads 1/4 tank.
This car sat for many years in a semi-finished condition. The seller I dealt with said the tank had never had fuel in it. It smelled like gas though – so I take his comment with a grain of salt.
Most likely the sending unit is gunked up. I may get to it one day – but am enjoying driving it too much to drop the tank out of it just now.
Thanks for the discussion. I learn something every time I spend a little time out here reading.
Hawk
I purchased the $695 set of 5 chrome wire wheels from Brad Anderson at MG Magic for my Chevette based MGTD. They are in fact true wire wheels – supported entirely by the spokes. They incorporate an inner rim seal covering the ends of the spokes to support use of tubeless tires. Initially I was skeptical of this but my tubeless tires were mounted last December and hold air just fine. I really like these wheels.
The wheels bolt to the 4-bolt Chevette hubs – they do not use real knock-off type mounting. As I understand it they have different wheels specific to the type of hub they’re intended to fit. The wheels are trimmed nicely with fake knock-offs (which actually fooled a local mechanice for a few minutes). The biggest downside is that they are a bit larger (14×7) than oem wheels would be. Mine fit fine within the wheel wells. They do have a beefier look than original MG TD wheels – but that actually suits me just fine.
If your goal is to trick people into actually thinking you’re driving an original MG TD then these wheels don’t really fit that requirement. But they’re very robust and I like ’em.
My other choice for wheels would have been chrome wheels offered by ‘US Wheel’ that I saw on pictures of Pink MG’s car. But on inquiry, I was told they don’t make them anymore in my required bolt pattern.
A nice set of wheels and tires made my MG TD look 100% better. Get something that meets your expectations.
I used the ’74 Beetle wiper motor assembly on my Chevette MG TD. But I can see how one could modify the Chevette assy to work.
Not sure if they’d fit or not, but I bought my wiper arms and blades from MG Magic in Florida. (954) 680-2010 and ask for Brad Anderson. He is a straight shooter and will tell you if the stuff he has will fit to your wipers. Or he may have some options for you.
Sounds like you’re rebuilding a kit car much as I am. Mine has never yet been completed nor titled. So its up to me to get ‘er done! 🙂
