Nice deal, Richard. I paid way more at Amazon. BTW, gonna get you back your kit history guides in the next couple. Fascinating stuff. Thanks for lending.

If I were you I’d get PN 408-580 (item 75) on this page and put my serial number and Fiberfab MFG ID on that.

Love to see pics of this part.

I think you’re going to want to omit the ballast box. It’s only there to wieght-up the front end and make up for a bad design element in the original kits.The problem: TD Replicas remove about 300 lbs from the front suspension, owing to the lighter body and the rearward shift in weight distribution. Most of these kits account for that by lowering…[Read more]

Those Cobras are awesome. But when there’s 20 of them and only one of us, we win–split the vote.

I’ve got the British Coach Works book for the VW kits. Maybe get to scan it one day.

I like that!

I do better with my Rotozip now that I run it at like half speed most of the time and change the blade after every other cut. It runs away from me a lot less now. Rip guide for this job might be as simple as clay pressed into the insides of the louvers with a steel straight edge pressed into the edge of the clay. 

Someone sold one of those mosquito rad caps on ebay earlier this year. went for something like $400, if I recall it right.

Yow, I’m stupid. Don’t just put in a bigger fuse–not what I meant. Put in a good fuse of the correct size for that circuit, and see if it gets hot. Ditto Dan re the wire gauge. Feel and see if its hot.But definitely install a headlight relay switch if there isn’t one on the circuit already. Relays make everything better.Your headlights might be…[Read more]

Sounds like a nice piece. Those old Moto Meters with the special wings & stuff on them can be spendy. Especially when they’re in antique shops. (or online). In old junk shops, or junk yards, (or online, elsewhere) they’re sometimes a bit cheaper.They might not be as rare as you first think.This one’s “buy-it-now” price is $55.Brass doesn’t rust,…[Read more]

Wow. You guys are hard core. I was thinking this winter I’d maybe get a heavier Sharpie and draw the black lines in my “louvers” a little thicker. Another possibility (for y’all front engine dudes): a Dremel or Rotozip drywall saw with a rip gauge.

Do you have a relay switch installed?If so, maybe just change the fuse. I bew a couple yesterday for no apparent reason. Lots on my car are just old.

Competition starts at $5k. You might have a better car though, and his starting price is lower than the reserve price.So I think you’re in line. Probably cheap, for what it is.But, given the economy, you might have to wait for a buyer. Same thing is happening to the Speedster guys. Nice cars sitting on the board, awaiting buyers. Theirs go for…[Read more]

We should make a little splinter group of ourselves. A vanguard, if you will.The Bald-Guys-With-Red-Ones Brigade.Or platoon.Or maybe just squad.

That’s a nice looking car, Bill. Good luck with the sale. 

Yeah, that too.

Thanks for the fix, Paul. We named our car Bridget within a month or two of her arrival here. Don’t think the last guy had a name for her.

Those other two could be amazing deals for someone. I might as well admit it now: I’d like to build a front engine kit into something outlaw. Thinking maybe a replica of the first gen. George Beavis Offenhauser car. Look it up if you’re interested.My thinking is get a Chevette car, replace the motor with a Quad-4 turned 90 degrees and a T-5…[Read more]

Ditto Mossberg’s setup for Bridget. ‘Cept I don’t know what color the wheels are–probably the usual “wheel silver,” which is close to Moss Motors’ Official MG Wheel Gray and 1/4 the cost. (Ask me later about how to get the correct bronze color for the center instrument plate without shelling out $22 plus shipping to Moss, and I’ll tell you).Some…[Read more]