Pictures?

Yes, removing the crank pulley should give you enough room. Was easier for me to shape the fiberglass panel.

Shifting the “brine?”
Egad!

Shifting the engine. 🙄

Warren

Generally yes. But you’ll find the rear apron likely gets in the way of shifting the brine back to disengage from the transaxle.

I solved that by cutting the apron back to match the “outline” of the crankshaft pulley.

Other than that, same process.

One caveat to what Bill wrote, VWs through 1968 1/2 had swing axle rear suspensions. Independent rear suspension was introduced midway through the 1968 model year.

Make sure the donor car under the TDr you buy has the IRS.

Manufacturers (and builders/owners) have used varying approaches to softening the front suspension also, from adding weight…[Read more]

Warren,

We are working on this.

Most of the articles are there. But the links are broken in these three categories: Ignition, Carburetor & Fuel, and Transmission and Drive

Paul

Alfredo,

Hover over the Library link in the tool bar near the top of the page, then click on Manuals.

I’m sure you know, real wires and very expensive.

It’s likely going to be a challenge to find real wires for the early five lug Type 1 bolt pattern. even harder to find a wire wheel with close to the 48 spoke count for an original TD.

You might want to swap the drums for four bolt, which will make the search easier. You can also drill the five…[Read more]

Joe,

The pedal cluster has been moved back several feet as our TDr seat is essentially where the back seat of an original VW Beetle was. That’s why your throttle cable is too long.

As was mentioned above, simply use a stock cable, cut to length and use one of these:

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/products/throttle-cable-shortening-kit-empi-00-3170-0

As always …thank you for handling all the technical issues for this site!

We’d be lost without you @stephenhouser !!!

Hi folks,

For the first time in decades, I’ll be absent this year. Susanne and I depart for Europe May 14th for a family wedding in Germany, with an add-on to Stockholm to see some of my family. I may drive out for the day Friday or Saturday, but even that is doubtful.

Enjoy!

Paul

Prices are all over the board, dependent largely on condition. I’ve seen “ads” for running cars from $1,000 to over $10,000 and an occasional dreamer looking for close to $20k.

The dreamers are literally that; since one can find a decent original TD for $20k, there’s no reason to pay that for a reproduction.

For a nice, clean, running TDr which…[Read more]

Tom – I do not know. Give Andy a call. His number is in the initial post. I believe he is in North Carolina.

Mark,

I can look up the email addresses that are stored in the user profile. But I’m hesitant to do so.

I suggest you send them a message through the site. If their stored email address is still valid, they should be notified there is a message for them.

Paul

Hi,

I’m assuming a VW based replica.

Get rid of the coil overs! They are likely the reason for your truck like ride.

Standard VW Beetle “oem type” shocks will be fine!

Hi,

I’ve been around the hobby since 1981 and have never seen a TC replica. Of course that doesn’t mean no manufacturer ever made one. I’m just not aware of any.

And remember, ride height should not be adjusted with the shocks.

Shock absorbers are just that, they control bounce and rebound.

If your car is truly sitting too low, it is more likely the springs. I’m not sure what other adjustments might be available for your Chevette based suspension.