John Richardson

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  • #302153
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Fellow Club members,

    Thanx, for the replies and concern. Yes, The “Sows Ear” is gone, the guy who had the eBay “Winning Bid” tried to back when he learned it would take a minor weld for the t

    #267806
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Dbanta,
    Can you post a copy of wiring diagram in message to me? The version you posted on the website comes up too blurry to use.
    Thanx,
    Prisoner #6

    #267803
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Just found out one of the reasons my fuse would pop was the turn signal switch was not correctly wired right! The wipers would work fine by themselves, a year later wiring them into a switch was a whole ‘nother story. There is a difference in early and late VW switch numbers stamped into the switch. Hot wire, ground, low speed and high speed  had a different number cast into the switch body. Unfortunately, we as kit car builders use an  analgram of parts to build a car. The stuff I download (The Samba) on switch wiring leaves a lot to be desired. Even though I HATE WIRING I am getting it done. You would think as open a vehicle as a MGTD is , it would be simple. Not so, it can be a Bitch which is why so many MGTD replicas are named after women. I am seriously thinking of calling this project “Hillary” after the BITCH she has become!

    #267802
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    I tried using a new main harness (engine to dash) from EMPI but should have purchased the FULL harness. I purchased some junk wiring harness from the local VW parts supplier but it drove me nuts trying to follow various VW wiring diagrams. Finally gave up in disgust and ordered the “Plug and Play” dune buggy wiring harness from Dune Buggy Brothers in Florida off of eBay $250. I highly recommend this but downside is it takes over a month (or more) for him to make one for a MGTD replica. However, he will incorporate pigtails for dash center gauges and move everything back as we are driving from the back seat! All his leads are tagged and wiring diagrams are included. Tell him specifically if your using tach and aftermarket turn signal/hazard steering shaft mounted box (I notched my dash for the box left of the steering shaft, my shaft comes from in-between the speedo and tach down about an inch to move steering wheel off my belly. Gave up on using the VW fuel level in the speedo and installed a new VDO 2 inch gauge. New gas tank float I purchased a year ago didn’t work (after trying 4 gauges, vibrators old and new) found problem was the float- I poured over $100 getting the fuel level working. Only electrical I have remaining are turn signal/running lights. Total expense on old/new and junk wiring ran up to over $400. This car has been a “Money Pit”! Engine sounds good and Holley Bug Spray seems good (after I rebuilt it) so I should finally drive her home by end of month.

    #266866
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Has anybody running the Edlebrock “Bug Spray” intake had a problem with wrench access to the rear right hand bolt? Originally mounted the carb to the intake when I installed it, now, with “Mrs. Peel” actually starting (but leaking gas) I decided to rebuild the carb. With the intake on the engine that last bolt was a Bear to remove, the generator is in the way and the port runner needs a relief built in for wrench access. Going to rebuild the carb today then I am going to put an Allen head bolt on the right rear mount hole when I mount the rebuilt carb. Sitting cross-legged on the garage floor and reaching to work on the carb is bad for my back, it wants to go out easily (which is why I’m selling my sailboat- 1978 Catalina 27 for sale in San Diego $4,000). YouTube has some excellent “Bug Spray” rebuild videos.

    #266872
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    The Miramar Auto Hobby Shop opens at 1200 weekdays but I got in at 1100 Wednesday. The rain soaked carpet dried out nicely so I fixed few things while my back cooperated.  Last year I inadvertently trapped the positive battery lead under the right door jamb and was unable to run the new “plug & play” wiring harness  under the left jamb. I unbolted the body to frame (3rd time) and was able to lift it up an inch and routed the battery cable and main harness under the jambs, checked for free travel and bolted body back down (this time to stay). That’s when my back gave out again. Today’s project is hook up more wiring, heat the tar boards and lay them down (after I drill out the seat mounts) and remount the front bumper. I’ll pay the monthly stall fee of $250 when my Social Security comes in next week.
    P.S. Taking my weekly cruise up the 101 Coast Road Tuesday from Torrey Pines to Carlsbad, a red TD pulled out in front of me before Del Mar, I caught with before the Del Mar exit. It’s a nice replica and appears front engined ,anyone know who the guy is? Hope to see him soon when “Mrs. Peel” gets off her duff and we hit the road.

    #266888
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    If you can get to San Diego, CA stop by Kline Bros. VW repair in El Cajon, CA (closer to Lakeside). They have a couple of milk crates full of VW speedo’s and parts for sale CHEAP (along with other crates of other stuff, new engines and tranny and all EMPI  and other parts). Over the years (3) I have found them all to be good guys. Be warned: this is NOT a shop for uneducated “Lookie-Lou’s” to come in and waste their time, they may appear to be a little gruff, but they’re all good guys and will cut you a deal if you are sincere. Highly recommended.
    John (Prisoner #6)

    #266883
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    A Porsche 914 electronic tach is identical in size to the VW speedo. I got mine on eBay 2 years ago for  under $100. There’s one in a derelict 914 in the Miramar Auto Hobby shop, Ray might sell it.

    #263342
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Just think, last year someone smart could have picked up a mechanically new ALL NEW ZERO miles on engine/trans everything else VW MGTD for $1,500! Glad no one jumped on it. I’ll never recoup the $3000 a year storage ($9000 total) but hey it’s ONLY money!

    #266871
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    EmbarrassedIt’s Mrs. Emma Peel You Twit!

    Yes, Diana you are sooo right! It must have been the thought of you in the leather catsuit and your metallic blue Lotus Elan, both are quite exceptional!
    Sorry, John

    But I did pick up today a set a new tar boards (floor insulation) and a rear engine tin to splash apron rubber gasket to keep the cooling engine air in. Need to get a hot air gun from Harbor Freight tomorrow to dry out the carpet. Will install Wednesday (since I’m now in a covered stall, I don’t fear El Nino anymore – come on baby).

    #263339
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    🙂 Well, I sold the Cheetah Roadster body in June 2015 to a Cheetah racer from the Chicago area, however to do this(I agreed to deliver the Cheetah from San Diego to Chicago area, which I did in 4 days) I had to buy a new truck as the transmission in my Ranger went out just before I left and I just got laid off from my job. A new (2007 anyway) truck set me back having to make payments again so the MGTD suffered for awhile, this plus the US Marine Corps HQ decided Auto Hobby Shops on USMC bases would be self supporting so my stall fee of $200 a month went up to about $300 a month and the Cornels wife decided all the “Project Cars” made the place look like a junkyard so all us restoration guys had to move our projects out of a covered stall with 110V power and LP air to an open parking stall open to the weather. Which was not so bad until “El Nino” decided to show up starting November. My Harbor Freight blue tarp sun rots easily so the second one now has holes which lately allows about an inch of rain on the new floor pans and carpet. Tiring of trying to rewire the car with a new rear harness and a used VW Bug harness, I finally broke down and bought a dune buggy “Plug & Play” harness off eBay. This was a good decision as all the leads are identified and so far everything connects (the relays have me a might confused) and some leads (to brake MC switch and reverse) were a foot short butt he guy did include  pigtails for the gauges (I still hook up aa to the VW speedo gauge) and leads for the Porsche 914  tach and leads to an aftermarket turn signal/hazard flasher that mounts to the steering column. I can now finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Ordered a rear splash pan from MG Magic, it fits VERY well (just had to trim 1/2 in from inside sides and taper the rear inside 1 in center to where I trimmed the sides. I highly recommend the Dune Buggy Plug & Play harness and the splash apron. Just got the good news that I can use a covered stall again only for $250 a month so I moved out of the weather but I expect  to have it out of there and on the road within the next two weeks. Its actually been under construction for three years this month and should have been done a LONG time ago. But after so much blood (literally), sweat and tears (not to mention MUCHO dinero) the “Sow’s Ear” is getting ready to run and I’ve got WAY to much money to give it away so I’ve decided to keep her along with a new name. I think “Emma Peal” sounds nice, Emma always turned me on anyway!:-) 

    #263337
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Here are the photos as of two weeks ago, I just bought a Cheetah roadster kit body and am thinking of (may I be permitted sacrilege: Putting it on the VW chassis)! After all it is about the same dimensions as a dune buggy, sits very low and a rear engine Cheetah MIGHT be kinda neat!

    #257957
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    I liked the size of the stock VW speedo but also wanted a similar sized tach. Picked up a decal from the ’50s or ’60s with gear shift points, got a good used speedo but after spraying over the MPH numbers on the face and applying the decal on the glass face it didn’t look so hot. E Bay searches didn’t find anything cheap until December when I picked up a working 914 electric tach but needed cleaning tach for $45 + S & H. Already cut a 4 1/4 inch hole in dash for the speedo/tach so the 914 tach was just a little work with a semi-circular file to make it fit. Looks good (see picture). The original gauges were in very bad nick so yesterday I picked up a used Veglia “Benzene” gas gauge same diameter as VDO and a B & M oil pressure gauge but it runs 100 psi to 300 psi wrong scale. Thought the Benzini Gasolini gauge sounded cute. This morning stopped by Harbor Freight where they had set of 3 gauges –  Ampheres, Water temp and a Oil Press 0-80 PSI which was what I wanted anyway (oil pressure, is mechanical vice electrical so I will have to route the nylon oil line), I also am wiring the oil pressure idiot light  . Very nice gauges with the metal brackets that hold to the back of the dash. With Harbor Freights 25% discount coupon cost me little over $12.00. Last week I received a 12″ X 24″ vinyl decal that show engined turned panel. I adhered it over the molded gauge panel, cut gauges and indicator light holes and it looks pretty good, photo to follow later. Attaching a photo of rough dash. New engines in, new tranny new everything else. Finally got her a name – “Mrs. Peale” was taken so I decided “Sow’s Ear” was quite appropriate. Got way too much money in her to stop now. I  the photos I’m attaching work out I’ll eventually do a start to finish. Lots of topics to discuss. Prisoner Number 6

    #255813
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Mike,

    I’m having the same problem, missing the brackets entirely. I’m a little confused, the lower bracket from trans tubes with 2 U-bolts makes sense which I’ve attached. What is the cross bracket width 32 inches or 42 inches? So it appears the 2 support brackets (43 inch) from front to back end with the bumper mounts go to the lower support. Now, what is the purpose of the cross bracket (main) that bolts to the lower mount holes on the cast mount just back from the oval plate covering the shift rod connector (shown in the FiberFab manual)? Is there an upper bracket that connects to the bracket illustrated by “newkitman”. Is the “newkitman” bracket the lower or upper? A photo would be nice.

    Thanx,

    John (Prisoner#6)
    #255690
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    I went through two sets of VW front seats, Ghias are too wide along with stock Bug seats. Where I work there are a lot of different golf type carts and John Deere Gators. The best I’ve seen are Columbia Eagle seats but finding some cheap is hard if not impossible to do. Finally saw the JD “Gator” seats which have flip forward and NARROW sliding tracks. There are approximately 22 inches wide and about 24 inch high. Be aware that most of the garden tractor seat backs are too short. The seats illustrated cost $99 new and shipping is about $20. The only problem is the are bright yellow but interior vinyl spray paint Desert tan from O’Reillys auto parts works well. These are what I am installing in my TD replica, will keep the forum posted.

    Thanx,

    John
    #255685
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    Being new to the TD replica scene, I though the safe and intelligent thing would be to use original WV Bug seats. No one told me (at least I couldn’t find an answer on the Internet) that you cant use stock seats due to the rear seat width (tunnel flares out) is narrower than the front. The first set I bought from the VW junkyard in El Cajon I found out they were Ghia seat which were too wide. The second seat were for a Bug but WAY too tall! Fortunately I work for a Navy activity downtown where there are lots of golf carts and John Deere Gators. After eyeballing and measuring I found two makes that seemed to fill the bill. Columbia Eagle seats were great, good looks, NARROW and on slides. Trying to buy a set was a pain and way too expensive. The John Deere Gator was almost as good but too short. Looking on the seat back a manufacturer info was stamped, got online and picked up a pair of JD repops (no JD logo) and unfortunately in JD YELLOW! But each complete with sliders and about 20-24 inches high was under $100 including shipping. Test fitting them was just about perfect. Holding off installing until I’m done painting the body (Rustoleum Hunter Green-sprays great out of the can!) and installing the front carpet. Found some Desert Tan dashboard vinyl interior spray paint at O’Reilly’s that works great. I think these are the best seats for the money. Contact me if you need more info. Thanx

    #257087
    John Richardson
    Participant

    @prisoner6

    I just picked up a louvered firewall. I am doing a body off reassembly and have not yet installed the rebuilt engine. The trans-axle, driveshafts and wheels are installed. Does the louvered firewall go behind the dome of the transaxle or over it? The Big Question: Should I be using the lovered firewall? Sure looks good.

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)