Here you go!

When using stainless fittings  be sure to use anti-sieze (available at any auto store) on the bolt and nut or it will weld itself together down the road and you will never get it loose.   Ask me how I know……:?

Dawn, the plain kind with no scents, will do the job with no damage to chrome, rubber, etc. 

Yeah, my steel toed socks are da bomb   😛

Thanks!  I’m around, just been spending a lot of time on my ’53 F100 project.  Whenever I need to clear my head it’s good to know the Duchess is there. 

     I may not post as often as I used to, but I check in pretty often to see if I can help or learn something.  My Duchess is running great,  used often, (not often enough!) and one reason it is the joy that it is is directly due to this site.  As I a newby, I never felt talked down to, and found everyone to be most respectful and helpful.      …[Read more]

Dan,  If you have the room, go with a Carter low pressure vane pump, it will last forever.  It sounds like you’re using those little buzz boxes and they tend to always go bad too soon.  

Dan, I forget if you have a Ford or Chevy, but either way I’d check the vacuum hose to the distributor and then play with the timing.  You checked the timing but was that a static check?   I have found that initial timing and the best timing may be a long way apart.  Change the timing, (probably advance it), drive, change, drive, etc.  It sou…[Read more]

Dan, do you mean that it won’t rev up when sitting, or that it wont pull on the street?

I figure my cars are not leaking oil, they’re just marking their territory!

Mine are metal.  My horn button is a momentary, boat type, on the left side of the dash, close to my hand.

I’ve had these 3+ years with no chips or flaking and they are plenty loud.  Cheaper than most regular horns too.http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Dual-Tone-Air-Horns,7650.html?utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=CSEGoogle&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&CAWELAID=1268548080&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNHav8XImrECFUpeTAodYhsreQ

pickshures, please!

A faulty solenoid, aggravated by heat sink issue would make the starter drive partially engage due to severe voltage drop that doesn’t fully engage the starter. Causes all kinds of noise due to partial engagement with the flywheel/flexplate.  Again,  relates to voltage drop due to heat that causes more drain on the system, thus the no problem o…[Read more]

We are the air bags for these cars!  Headrests would work about as well as on motorcycles IMORingo2012-06-24 20:38:38

Montie,  could be condition known as heat sink,  the starter or relay get hot, shut down and don’t work till cooled down again.  Did you happen to move the starter relay to a different spot?  If not, try temporarily moving the relay to see if it helps.  You may need heat shield over the starter.  Also, how old is the starter relay?  It’s for su…[Read more]

I may have missed it somewhere in the thread but when you say you checked the fuses did you check them with an OHM meter for continuity or just visual?  If visual, don’t trust your eyes, the break can be deep in the metal socket.  

No problems changing mine out.  You might need a u joint on your ratchet extension but I didn’t, just a couple of extensions to make one long one.   

Wow!  and over 100K!  Outstanding!   You have truly paid your dues in the world of TD replicas.

  Some folks want to do the whole thing at once, knowing that it’s all new with no weak spots.  But there’s nothing wrong with doing a little at a time.  By doing one section at a time, you get to drive more!  Most cars I’ve done were the one system at a time rebuild and I’ve not regretted it.      I will add to Royal’s advise by saying.…[Read more]