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Is just the rubber wiper blade missing, or is the whole wiper arm gone?
When I replaced my rubber wiper blades I went to Walmart and bought one 18″ blade, cut in into 2 proper lengths and rethreaded them into the old wiper arms or blade holders or whatever you call them. Cheap easy fix, cost only a few dollars and no looking around for custom or hard to find parts.I used metal tape to seal off the opening between the tins and fiberglass floor of the engine compartment. And there are matching holes in the rear deck lid (fake gas tank) that match those on the spare mounted to it, to provide the fresh air intake. That’s why I don’t recommend a spare tire cover (for appearance sake) as you are blocking off the fresh air intake if you put that on.
And I totally agree with everything Kent said.
mrlmd2013-07-27 11:11:52My car had the tins in place and I made a firewall out of Galvalume material left over from a roofing project, placed forward of the engine a few inches from the fan shroud, screwed into the fiberglass. That effectively separated my engine compartment from the exhaust and heater boxes underneath, and it dropped my engine temp 10-20 degrees and cured my tendency to overheat. And I live in Florida where 90-95+ degree days are common and have had no problem since I did that.
When I had my new top made, I had a length of 1/8′ aluminum bar (from the local hardware store) sewn into the front of the top. It fits right into the slot at the top of the windshield, works great, and will never rot.
mrlmd2013-07-03 12:53:40That’s the way it was when I bought the car. The hinge is on the wrong side for that rod, but I prefer the hinge on the driver’s side anyway.
I just made the hood support as easy as as inexpensive as I thought necessary, and like I said, it works and works well.Shift into 4th gear.:-)
I run 60mph at 3000 with the same size tires 20# in front 25# in rear.
Check your speed with a GPS, the speedos could be wrong.mrlmd2013-06-22 12:09:54
Why do you guys make this so difficult and costly? I like simple and easy (and inexpensive).
My car came with a hood support rod installed behind the gas tank on the firewall (see pics) but it seemed a little short and there was nothing to connect it to or support it underneath the hood. I glued a block of wood that I had drilled a hole into, to the underneath of the hood and used a length of PVC pipe I had lying around to hold up the hood. The bottom end of the pipe just sits in and wedges into the passenger side corner of the compartment and is very secure and the hood is very stable. When not in use, the pipe lies in the space behind the gas tank and just sits there, not rattling or anything. Nobody sees this arrangement (if you are looking for pure beauty or absolute authenticity) and I don’t think it’s a detraction from the car, it just works. I could have used the rod that’s there and just again glued a block of wood to the underside of the hood, but this time I would not have drilled the hole all the way through, just so that it wouldn’t (unlikely) poke a hole or crack the fiberglass or gelcoat of the hood because of the localized pressure on it.
I use the same idea, another length of PVC pipe, stored in the boot behind the seats when not in use, to support the rear deck and spare tire if I need to do something in the engine compartment. It also wedges in in appropriate areas and is very secure and once in place, cannot slip.
Where do you live? The availability of insurance coverage varies from state to state. I’m in Florida and you almost can’t get any coverage unless your car is stored inside a 4-walled enclosed garage.
What you are describing is just putting a line into a fuel can, the line is not full of fuel, it is full of air. You have no siphon or any fuel getting into the pump. The pump works if fuel is delivered to it, in our cars from the line draining the bottom of the tank via gravity, the line being full of fuel leading into the pump, not full of air. These pumps do not generate negative pressure or suction to get primed with fuel, they only generate positive pressure to push the fuel out that is inside of the pump.
Instead of putting the line into a can of fuel, you would have to put it onto the bottom of a funnel, then fill the funnel with gas, then that gas will flow into the fuel pump. Get it? I’m making myself clear?
Either get someone else to help you as you need more than 2 hands to hold the funnel (away from the engine) and turn the key on, or somehow secure the funnel so it won’t pour gas all over the car.
You cannot say anything about the fuel pump the way you are doing this and there may be nothing wrong with the pump.When gas fuel sits for a long time, especially like ten years or more, the volatile
elements in the fuel evaporate and you are left with a gummy residue
that clogs up all the fine passages that the fuel flows through. You
probably cannot get your fuel system cleaned adequately with Seafoam or
Berryman’s at this point, you most likely have to take it apart and
thoroughly clean it.
There is a little filter or mesh type strainer on most tank fuel pickup lines and yours may be clogged with a varnish type residue or clogged with rust. You can try and blow air through it to see if it or the fuel line hose is clogged.
Next, your carb jets are probably clogged with the same “varnish” residue and you need to remove and clean the carb, remove the jets and make sure they are open.You have to start at the tank first and follow the path of fuel to see where it’s not getting through to the carb. It’s more likely to be one of these problems than a bad fuel pump, but now, you are not even able to get gas to that pump to see if it works. You can hook up an external tank to the pump, crank the engine, and see if gas squirts out, and be careful where it goes – pump it into another container.
You had better check that your engine oil is flowing too after sitting for ten years.That’s like VW’s People Car project, the Hover Car. Watch this video but don’t expect to understand one spoken word.
PMOSSBERG2013-05-30 11:28:17
jebarry wrote:FYI guysand I might add the London Roadster has a chrome/ metal grill . It is not fiberglass.My LR has a custom built chassis with coil-over suspensions and four wheel disc brakes still using VW engines and transaxles..
You have front coil-overs? Do you know what kind/length/rating? Is your ride harsh and stiff?
I realize you don’t have a stock VW chassis but the weight and dimensions shouldn’t be that much different.
mrlmd2013-04-29 09:25:34The price is pretty good too. Except for some surface (?) rust underneath it looks in excellent shape. It won’t last too long, someone will grab it.
mrlmd2013-04-12 13:21:39Shu – what kind of coil over shocks do you have on the front? And what kind of ride do you have?
I’m still thinking of doing that rather than spending $3-400 more for an adjustable beam to raise up my fenders 1″ so my tires will clear on turns.My car originally came with 135’s, about 3/4″ lesser diameter, standard on the older VWs.
With the new 165s on, my tires rub on the fenders making a sharp turn (still haven’t elevated my car yet with an adjustable beam).Marine Tex is great stuff, it comes in a few ounce jar with a separate small vial of hardener (catalyst), and comes in a gray or white color, and is good for all sorts of uses besides just for fiberglass. Not only does it bond well to fiberglass, but also to metal. I’ve even used it to repair a hole in an aluminum exhaust in a jetski caused by corrosion, and it’s held up for more than 6 years.
When you use it to fill a hole, back it up with some tape like Ed said, but this stuff will be too thick to flow behind the tape unless you push it through and spread it out on the backside of the repair. It’s not a liquid like fiberglass resin, it’s thicker than peanut butter. To help smooth out the side you see, wet your finger and lightly go over the repair and flatten it out. A little bit of water doesn’t bother it at all. That saves a lot of sanding after it cures and hardens, and if you do it nicely, sometimes that’s all you need if you blend it in well with the surrounding area.mrlmd2013-03-26 21:06:37
OK. now it’s on it’s way to Don.
Anyone else wants to read it, PM him to get it next, and write your name in the book with the others.
It’s a quick read. enjoyable, a little informative or instructional, maybe good for your spouse or S.O. to read too, to give her an idea of what this is all about and maybe teach her how an engine works.You’ve got the same wheel covers/hubcaps I have – none. What are you going to put on there?
I took off my fake wire wheel covers, plus I only had 4 when I got the car, and I like the look better with the bare wheels. You also can just get center hub covers and leave the bolts exposed, but I’ll probably find some baby moons somewhere.
What did you paint your wheels with? They look great.mrlmd2013-03-25 09:51:24
Isn’t there some sort of unwritten rule that you must be 60 years old or more to be able to own one of these cars? Nobody in their 30’s should be allowed to have one.
