Ok Pans are in place and screwed down. patches to the tunnel and e-brake are also screwd in place and will be plug and seam welded. fortuately I did notice before I made a mistake that the plate over the old e-brake whole will have to be welded last as the pan has to be welded before the pedel assembly can be put back on and the only access to…[Read more]

Heres some shots of the new pans and some of them setting in place. They will be plug welded so I had to take an air punch and punch holes along the edge every 2 to 3 inches.  then they will be screwed in place with self tapping screws every 3 or 4 holes to hold them in place and minimize warping during welding. We will weld a spot at every hole…[Read more]

Ok I got my new pan halves. picked them up at Aircoolin’ a vw parts place in covington Wa. They owner troy is a VW nut and was a great help he has a huge inventory of new, used and refurbed vw parts. Here are some shots of the tunnel with the rusty pans stripped. You can check out Troy at http://www.aircoolin.comWill
Washington Will40200.5804976852

Chuck, here is a link to a flat wood wheel for vintage look. they also have a nice ivory banjo style with vw adaptor hubs and various horn buttons. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C38-I-18 0
Will
(Edited by Paul Mossberg to correct the link)PMOSSBERG40200.6586458333

Paul, A friend of mine with a corvette buys from midamerica all the time and highly recommends them

Ed, Lookin’ good nice to sneak it out for a spin when ever possible. Larry and Ringo are right. Check your grounds and if they are good then the master cylinder is accessible behind the driver side front wheel built on to the master cylinder. My Migi is a 69 VW and has a dual master cylinder with two brake light switches. Mine is also accessable…[Read more]

Doug, that is alot of good info and you really did a nice job. My hats off to you and your creativity. Talk about a sleeper, they’ll never hear you comin’. Thanks for sharing,Will

Dave, I have never seen a pinto frame but I can’t imagine it would differ that greatly from the CMC chevette frame I have a couple of shots of the chevette frame without body in my gallery. Maybe Mark or others familiar with the ford frame could tell you how close it is or isn’t and if it is close I would be happy to send you some more photos and…[Read more]

Dave I have a Daytona Migi VW in the midst of a frame off restoration and a CMC chevette kit that I just started so take this info for what its worth. I hope it helps.The Migi Seat back to pedels 39″seat back width 43″cab wall to wall or side to side at seat back 44.5″ cab width at front of doors 40″bottom of seat back to bottom section of…[Read more]

Ed, you have posted useful info it was your post at the beginning of this thread that showed me what I was up against and how to shorten the cables. The musings are fun too. It is the camaraderie and advice that brought me here and keeps me checking back daily. It is also cool how some of the members have actually gotten together at meets or near…[Read more]

Paul, Well done thanks, hope to have the finish to this thread in the next week or so.Will

Wow that is alot of nice work the pictures look really good. How long are the batteries good for? I mean total life expectancy. How much would you say you have wrapped up in the conversion. I think I would miss the purr and rev of the gas engine. 

Mark and Paul, The volvo we just did the 4.3 Vortec conversion with was a 1959 PV 544 Just like this one I copied from on the web. This is not our car but is ironicly the same color. The mechanicals are all done and she runs “mean” but she still needs paint and interrior. We did set her up with 6 way power seats out of a chrysler lebaron, which…[Read more]

In this one you can Barely see the end of the tubes where the cables come out they will line up perfectly with the underside of the e-brake mechanism.  I ordered the floor pan halves and I mis-spoke in my previous post they were $150 per side not total. Thats ok when we are all done it will be a complete frame up restoration. I hope to have the…[Read more]

Here is a picture of the access hole under the inspection plate and the new e-brake hole in front of it. you can see the brake tubes make sort of a “Y” on either side of the shift linkage. I did kink one of the tubes somewhat ehen I rerouted them but the cables are so much smaller then the tubes they still move without resistance. I cut the tubes…[Read more]

Here is another shot showing where I removed the e-brake from, which I will have to patch of course and the e-brake sitting over the new hole

Ed, Thats why this site and club is so great it was your info that led my couruosity to take the chance here are the first few pics and still a ways to go. This photo shows the e-brake sitting in the new position nothing has been cleaned up and welded yet but this is where it will be
Washington Will40183.3845833333

Ok well I was able to cut the tubes that guide the e-brake cables without cutting any additional access holes in the tunnel. I was able to access the tubes from the hole I cut in the top to mount the e-brake. The two tubes run along the sides of the tunnel and form a “Y” as it passes the inspection plate and heads toward the rear tires. I cut the…[Read more]

Paul you are right when cutting on a frame you do effect the integrity patches must be of sufficient guage and welded back in properly. My buddy and I just restored a 59 volvo (looks like a stretched out beetle) and we put a 4.3 chevy vortec V6 with a 700r4 trans in it we also replaced the rearend with a ford ranger rearend that we cut and…[Read more]

Ok well I took the cut off tool and cut a piece out around the e-brake about 2.5″ x 7″ and was able to lift the E-brake handle right out. as you stated there are two tubes with the brake cables inside attached to the bottom of the peice I removed the tubes and cut another whole in the top of the tunnel to the rear of the shifter “1.5 x 3” this is…[Read more]