Hi pinehurst…
Please click the Registry link in my signature and post a note with the requested info so we can add you to the roster and map!
Thanks!

Welcome aboard the TD forum Pinehurst. I have a VW based CMC Fiberfab kit that I’m building. Found a chassis for it (I think) and hope to get the major work started. There is a lot of knowledge and experience here so don’tworry about asking questions. I’ve been rebuilding cars since 1980 and still have questions. So ask away. And don’t forget to…[Read more]

Ringo X 2… you said it bro. My first dash was polyvarithane (spelling?) and it was showing fogged spots and scratches when I got it.So when I re-did the dash I went with a tung oil finish and have been happy. A buff with furniture polish and SHINY!

Ed, Radiators aren’t that difficult, the cores are available cut to size, solder on the cans & fittings then pressure test and then solder up all the leaks.The hard part is most of the radiators today have plastic cans. (No can solder)Carlisle??? Not that far? I’m in rainy California. I’d love to go but I cannot stay away from work that long.…[Read more]

Ok Mike….we welcomed you and helped id your car. Now head on over to the registry (link is in my signature) and post the requested info so we can add you to the list!  Welcome again! 

Roger that, Ringo. I’m hoping to get good enough to weld in my e-brake handle between the seats. That tunnel sheet seems thick enough that a duffer like me might manage it, no? I figure it’s 2 or 3 times as thick as a fender or door panel.

thanks guys, now if i could just get some warm weather………..

Welcome to the group.  Mine is a CMC Ford, had her for 2 years, part of the faily now. 

 Ringo, You said it real good. Those shinny dashboards do catch the eye but I chose the oil finish for my dash to allow me to easily repair any scratches or chips. To each his own opinion . I saw a FiberFab car that belonged to the owner of a body shop . He had used some combination of paints where he took a brush and created a woodgrain effect…[Read more]

Gang,  remember one thing about polyurethane or epoxy finishes, if they get scratched, which is highly likely, you can’t repair them without redoing the whole dash .Spot repairs on solid finishes always  show in the sun .  Older classics used oil finishes since they can be spot repaired without any of the repairs showing.  You can get a pretty goo…[Read more]

Best advice,  be sure to practice a lot on thicker metal before you even think about sheet metal.  The stick is good for frames and brackets and heavy type stuff but you will blow hundreds of holes in sheet metal before you get a good weld unless you have practiced so much that you can do the thicker stuff with your eyes closed.  Even with MIG, yo…[Read more]

Welcome aboard!  You’ve had them for 4 years?  What took you so long to find us?

I’m with Larry re a Fiberfab.I also fixed your post so the picture is linked. PMOSSBERG40547.927974537

Russ,I’d lie to see your light shell.There were two types that I have seen used on replicas.On the original TD style, the lens “rim” for lack of a better term, is only about an 1/8th of an inch. In other words, from the seat on the bullet, to the leading edge of the lens rim is only 1/8″.On the other style, that same “rim” is over a half inch…[Read more]

EBay has a few for sale at any given time. $15 each seems to be the no-breaks price. But these look right at $19 for a set of four, with trim rings. And these here, marked as “Lucas VW” lenses might just be kit car parts originally… I think they’re all the same, but if I were actually buying them I’d check carefully, even at 99 cents.Bottom…[Read more]

Welcome, Pinehurst. I’ve got a BCW VW car & love it. Hope to see photos of your cars soon.

I have the same welder works great not to easy to use on thin sheet metal when you start you will understand why they call it stick welding. I bought a 110 volt MIG just for body panel sheet metal
get a 1/8th or thicker scrap and start laying down some beads
cut your first few rods in half you will have a little more control to start
 

Came across this looking for something else. Pretty good.
http://wn.com/1952_mg_td_roadster_fake!

 Mike, I saw the picture in the photo gallery. From what I see ,it looks like a FiberFab kit to me. I am basing my opinion on the pan that connects the fenders under the grille and the fact that the rear fenders connect to the running boards without any steps or molded in areas to clear the VW torsion bars.
 Glad you picked this one up to re…[Read more]

You will find this to be the friendliest and most helpful group that you can imagine.  I also am a twofer.  I have a Daytona MiGi 2, Fors powered, and a VW powered Fiberfab MiGi.  My favorite is the one that currently needs the least work.