I’ll be pushing 50 for another year hope I make it
will be 49 in april

Thanks a bunch guys.I spent several hours and all I could find was the newer model with the plug in leads.
Used that info,(,its all basic ,hot ,ground,and pionts lead )and tried the unit out.Well is seems to pick up a signal,but I feel with age and improper storage for what is a delicate piece of equipment It does not function poperly.
A few…[Read more]

Roy important head update
You have 2 different heads from 2 different motors.
Sorry I was bored
the 311-101-373A is a 67-70 1600 sp with 35.5×32 valves
the 113-101-373B is a 1300 sp with 33×30 valves
this info tells me that the chambers are different between the 2

Roy a good engine shop should be able to CC the heads corectly for a small charge.Worth it in the end result.VW has to tight of tolerance to guess.Also don’t forget there is cylinder shims that can be used to set correct compresion ratio,if the head chambers are to small.

Well to update on the 350.
Most were bought as parts cars,aquired for $25-$50,some were traded for somthing different,I think it was a touch of ADD in my younger days.Somtimes I think it still is.I would venture a guess that 70% of the cars were drivable,and I did drive most of them for a short time.A couple of the more memorable ones.
61 ford…[Read more]

Way to go Roy;I think you started somthin.
I’m just around the corner from 50,and lose count on cars after 250,I know I have had over 350 in my time.
The kick myself in the pants comes with a Ford;1966 Fairlane GTA,390 big block with 425 horse factory,Worth $90,000 today restored.I was 18 and not a ford guy (still aint) If a guy would have only known.

This is why I never put any stock/faith/or trust in an electric gauge,other than volt/ampmeter.
I know its difficult if not impossible to find a 20 foot capilairy tube for an oil gauge.So if a person is dependant on an electric gauge spend a little more and get a good quality gauge.

My coice for oil this time around.Fresh 1641 build.
I went with a fleet farm brand diesel oil.
my concerne is that todays oils are designed for todays engines,LESS of the antifriction additives(mainly zinc) for flat tappet cams,and more detergents that plug up the cat,wich we don’t have.
I was just searching oils for old engines this morning,and…[Read more]

Wasn’t thinking when I posted.You can also have the divots welded and then recut the head to stock specs.

looks like a ball bearing was slammin around til it finally got pushed out the exhaust valve.
The area can be recut to smooth the chamber,but you should have all 4 chambers done the same to keep compression even.

Roy;
My 2 cents is 250 for a core is still to high.
Talk him in to letting you fire it up.check oil put in a battery,dribble some gas down the carb,hot wire it and short the starter if need be.If it runs and don’t make any ungodly noises then 250 I could live with.
I did a little looking B is 1600 sp late 69-to early 70, 57 horse.Ok so I was a bit…[Read more]

Once the shock is off look very carfully for a possible part number or brand name.Coil-overs are a very common product these days.most are sold by length,spring rate,and eyelet size.Spring rate is determined mostly by weight of the vehicle,and my memory is failing but my vw based was around 600-800 on the front end.Places like summit,Jegs,and…[Read more]

Roy I’ll chime in.
$300 for a core be it sp or dp seems a bit high.whether it be a 1500 or 1600 the only differance is the heads.DP will give you a bit more snot,If you call 20 horse snot.I paid 125 for a 1971 AH dual port with case savers.
Seeing as you already have a good set of heads offer him $100 and you pull,and yes take the one that has the…[Read more]

Greg I am assuming you have a VW based.If the front end has been modified to a coil/over susspention set up should not matter.Where the tow bar attaches to the main front beam/tubes will remain the same.
Typically the tow bar attaches inward of the shock towers,so a coil/over should not matter.
I have also seen guys weld a TAB off the bottom of…[Read more]

Here is one more tip.
I have reaserched this dub stuff to death.I still am not sold on dubs.
However there is alot of little tricks with a rebuild on a vw.
case can be align bored for both crank and cam bearings,BUT only enough to clean the sadles up.crank and cam turned,agian just to clean them,Now this is where someone that knows what the H E…[Read more]

 
AAAAh  look in my photo album I brought mine home in the back of a pick-up it will fit.
However a tow-bar would be the quickest and more reasonably priced.And will store hanging on the garage wall or a corner in the basement.
You could also build your own that would fold up and take up less space than one of them fold up chairs that fit in a b…[Read more]

rockyx
Have the original crank turned.You will sleep better at night.A good german crank,allthough turned/rezised is far stronger and superior to the foriegn cranks on the market.
There is machinability designed in both the vw case and crank.ONLY take enough material off the case saddles and crank to put everthing back in round/spec.Cranks and…[Read more]

Go to a radio shack and get some 24 volt bulbs.With only 12 volts going to them they will be dimmer,and hopfully match what you have.

Royal I like

I am no expert,But I do know crankshaft end play is a consern.Grab the belt pulley and tug and push on it and see how far things move.On an engine with high miles there will be play,some is normal,but if it has too much,this meens the thrust bearing suface will need machining and most likley an align bore for the crank.
Keep in mind the more you…[Read more]