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When using stainless fittings be sure to use anti-sieze (available at any auto store) on the bolt and nut or it will weld itself together down the road and you will never get it loose. Ask me how I know……:?
Thanks! I’m around, just been spending a lot of time on my ’53 F100 project. Whenever I need to clear my head it’s good to know the Duchess is there.
I may not post as often as I used to, but I check in pretty often to see if I can help or learn something. My Duchess is running great, used often, (not often enough!) and one reason it is the joy that it is is directly due to this site. As I a newby, I never felt talked down to, and found everyone to be most respectful and helpful.
I have known many cowards and bullys in my day and hate to see one here. As much as I hope the bully who did this never posts again, I challenge him to post his BS in the open forum so we can show him the way. But then again, bullys always hide when challenged.
Hopefully the offended party and his wife know that Paul and the rest of us will not accept this behavior and that they should continue to feel free to depend on this great group.Remember, you can’t teach a pig to sing!
Dan, If you have the room, go with a Carter low pressure vane pump, it will last forever. It sounds like you’re using those little buzz boxes and they tend to always go bad too soon.
Dan, I forget if you have a Ford or Chevy, but either way I’d check the vacuum hose to the distributor and then play with the timing. You checked the timing but was that a static check? I have found that initial timing and the best timing may be a long way apart. Change the timing, (probably advance it), drive, change, drive, etc. It sounds like your advance isn’t doing its job. Is the distributor new or old? With all you’ve done I just have to bet it’s a timing issue.
Mine are metal. My horn button is a momentary, boat type, on the left side of the dash, close to my hand.
I’ve had these 3+ years with no chips or flaking and they are plenty loud. Cheaper than most regular horns too.
A faulty solenoid, aggravated by heat sink issue would make the starter drive partially engage due to severe voltage drop that doesn’t fully engage the starter. Causes all kinds of noise due to partial engagement with the flywheel/flexplate. Again, relates to voltage drop due to heat that causes more drain on the system, thus the no problem once it cools off. Ford starters are mighty picky when it comes to any voltage drop, be it relay, ground, or starter itself. I’m now bettin’ on a weak wiring connection, or the rebuilt starter is a dud. One quick way to check is to use a can of dust off or other canned air, held upside down to cool off the part. When it happens again. spray a good amount on the starter, if no good, spray the relay, if still no good spray yourself to cool off from all the aggravation this is causing 😆
We are the air bags for these cars! Headrests would work about as well as on motorcycles IMO
Ringo2012-06-24 20:38:38Montie, could be condition known as heat sink, the starter or relay get hot, shut down and don’t work till cooled down again. Did you happen to move the starter relay to a different spot? If not, try temporarily moving the relay to see if it helps. You may need heat shield over the starter. Also, how old is the starter relay? It’s for sure heat overload on some part of the starting system.
Hope this helps. Good luck!I may have missed it somewhere in the thread but when you say you checked the fuses did you check them with an OHM meter for continuity or just visual? If visual, don’t trust your eyes, the break can be deep in the metal socket.
No problems changing mine out. You might need a u joint on your ratchet extension but I didn’t, just a couple of extensions to make one long one.
Some folks want to do the whole thing at once, knowing that it’s all new with no weak spots. But there’s nothing wrong with doing a little at a time. By doing one section at a time, you get to drive more! Most cars I’ve done were the one system at a time rebuild and I’ve not regretted it.
I will add to Royal’s advise by saying…….ground, ground, ground, ground, then re check the ground! You can’t assume anything when it comes to redoing grounds. Go down to bare metal, a little scratch in the paint under a bolt is asking for too many headaches. Been there, done that.
Don, Just checked mine and it’s not much different. I lubed it a few years ago and haven’t had any problems. One time the bracket shifted and it caused a bind at the linkage, but the cable has had no problems.
John, according to this site http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_mistakes.htm re; chrome headlights.
- “This one’s a lot tougher because in some cases it is correct and in others it’s not. Also there is no definitive date that I am aware of where the production of the MGTD switched from chrome to painted headlamps. Clearly if you have a 1949 to early 1951 TD you should go chrome. If you have a very late 1951 through 1953 TD then painted headlamps are for you. Somewhere in the middle is your guess. Until we can find more definitive information either way would be OK.
- Interestingly there could be a case made for either way. The chrome headlamps are certainly more easy to maintain. The biggest fault with the MGTD in my opinion is the fact that if you are not extremely careful you will scratch the painted headlamps when opening the hood. On the other hand chrome can be quite a glare hazard when the sun shines just right and could cause safety problems. Many race cars today sport black components where their street brethren have chrome. Others have cited the lack of chromium during the Korean war as a reason but I have a hard time buying that. There are plenty of other places on the MGTD where they could have saved on chrome and did not do so.”
- So, we’re good either way
Ringo2012-03-15 21:26:33
I have used them on 3 other cars, one with a CD ignition box, all have worked great. One is 12 years old and hasn’t missed a beat.
BTW, does anyone who used to drive an old points type ford remember having to find old beer pull tabs on the side of the road to set their spare points when the old ones burned out every 3 months?
