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So, this is a bit embarrassing and may be my last TDr story:
So, the new owner asked if it ran. I without even opening the door or getting in, reached in turned the key on and pulled the knob – it started instantly. (I had changed from the replica button start to a pull start knob just like “real” TD’s)(I was trying to keep up with Ed, before I realized that it was impossible.)
Started instantly. He got it home and called me: “The car won’t start. Won’t even grunt.” I knew what it was immediately. You have to turn the key on, and then PULL on the knob with the “S” on it.
I had simply forgotten to tell him about one of the idiosyncrasies of the TD…..and sometimes even a TDr.
I’ll add that not only are there differences between original TD and replica grill shells, but not all replica shells are the same and they are not interchangeable between replica manufacturers without modifications.
I’m 78 this week and have decided to sell my MGTDr. I almost sold it a few months ago to a fellow on this site, but the deal fell apart at the end. If you are interested, please give me a call. It still has not been advertised. I will be out of town until 9/26 but would be willing to talk about my TDr experiences and compare them to my real MGTF-1500 that I owned for 16 years.
Roy, at 252 671 0067 in New Bern, NC. Leave me a text because I usually don’t answer calls from people that I don’t know. I’ll call you back.
Sorry Guys, I’m out. Family health problems. Don’t even know what state I’ll be in when the show’s on. Julie and I are fine but it’s just a bad time.
Not to belabor the point, but Bill’s front seat arrangement allows the most possible leg (and chest) room available in our TDr’s. Very roomy and comfortable.
2 core vs 3 core: I was having temp problems with my 998cc classic mini. Did a lot of reading and decided to try a 2 core vs the 3 core original. The logic being that while the 3 core may have more coolant exposure the increased density of the cores decreases the air flow and thus: the 2 core cools better.
I should mention that I had acid cleaned my original radiator and it was sparkly clean. Good thermostat. Ran it. Changed radiator and I tried as best as possible to duplicate conditions and sure enough, without changing anything else, my running temperatures went down after I put in a 2 core.
Now the thermostat has complete control over running temperatures.
Bill, it certainly looks a lot better than I expected also. I think that i agree with Ed – you got ‘er done. Smile, be happy.
Advice: These kits are all different from each other in tub dimensions. They may look similar and may be the same but I will tell you that the only way to be sure is to have a canvas shop make one for you. And yes, this will cost you more than a few hundred dollars. My Daytona and Jack’s Fiberfab and BCW are all different enough that my tonneau would not fit on his cars. Ordering one is risky business.
good luck.
Garry, good for you. Congratulations. Enjoy. They are great cars and a lot of fun. Now you get to make it yours. The boys here, in this TDr website, will be able to answer any questions you may have. I would urge you to get involved here and with any of the sports car clubs in your area.
If you really “want to make it look like the original TDs with steel wheels”, why are you looking for 14″ wheels since originals came with 15″ wheels?
I think that offset, tire aspect ratio and rim width are much more important than diameter when considering clearance issues.
I agree with Ed, you really need to do some test fitting.
Never let it be said that “Everyone is too polite to ask”!
I discovered (after carefully reading one of your many detailed posts long ago) that you are “that guy who went absolutely sicko with the Porschey details.”
I’ve only met your wife briefly on a few occasions but, you surely hit the jackpot with her.
….And, if I were to want the absolute best replica of anything, I’d ask you to build it for me…..without reservation.
….And thank you for all of your detailed posts chronicling your build.
Ed, I am quite sure that it will not surprise you to hear that I never attempted to undertake a project this time consuming and complex. I’m impressed.
Did you keep a log of your hours and costs? …..or shouldn’t I ask?
Todd, the original TD’s used a “flat 1″ x 3/16″ rubber weather strip under the window bottom frame”. I think that BCW TDr’s also used this kind of strip/seal at the bottom of the windshield. So, my advice would be use what works.
My bottom engine surround is not bolted to the fenders or the body. Simply attached to the engine.
Ain’t it the truth:
So, we finally had a nice day and I decided to take my abandoned (in my garage) TDr for a ride after getting temporary “paper” plates. Pulled out of the driveway and got up to the end of our cul-de-sac. No brakes. Nada. Zip. Fortunately, I had relocated the emergency brake handle a few years ago and it did work. Got it home and then the fun started.
Looked under the car and saw no puddle. The reservoir was almost full. Pumped the pedal – nothing. Time for a good head scratch. Checked each wheel for leakage. Nope. I figured it must be the master cylinder but could’t imagine how a master cylinder could fail such as to have NO brakes or any resistance when depressing. Somewhat convinced that it must be the master cylinder, I sourced a new one. Boy, what a pita it is getting to it and getting the old line fittings off. And of course, on my Daytona, you have to remove the fuel tank to get to the bolts holding the MC on. Fortunately I only had about 3 gallons of gas in the tank. My good friend Happy Jack offered to come help and lend moral support. After bench bleeding the new master cylinder, we got it in and started to bleed the brake lines. My Daytona VW is up on jack stands and I am running around from wheel to wheel. I’m adding fluid and Jack is adding fluid. Jack is pumping the pedal. Finally, after no luck getting any pedal, Jack gets out and comments on how he almost slipped on my garage floor. Hmmm? Why. Reached inside and the carpet on the driver’s side was wet. Oh no! The line running from the master cylinder to the rears had sprung a leak. The good news at this point was that my driver’s side floorboard is capable of holding about 16 ounces of brake fluid without leaking. I had totally forgotten that the line runs inside the car. (I have had more cars than I care to share. But, does any other car have brake lines running through the passenger compartment under the carpet?) So, gotta replace the long line from the MC to the rear where it T’s off to each rear. Getting to each of these fittings requires a contortionist and a nice supply of odd wrenches. The builder had fiberglassed the old line to the floor of the tub so I had to do some cutting with my multi-tool. Finally it’s off. Our friend Dalton at Simmons VW Restoration is only about 2 miles from my house and he had a new brake line which he traded for a new set of front brake shoes that I no longer needed since I changed to front discs. Installing the new line is no walk in the park. I had an assortment of bending tools and needed them. Had to drill some new holes through the tub and assemble. Getting the flare fitting onto the T at the rear is a bitch. Clearance, long reach, dark. Can hardly see it, and not a good view. Finally, success. Bleeding went smoothly. All’s well.
My VW has a dual cylinder master cylinder and the front brakes come off the front of the MC. The rear of the MC supplies fluid to the rears (both of them). Now, I assumed that if you had a break in one of the lines, the other brakes would still work. The reservoir is also split into two halves and there are two supply hoses to the MC. I found out that if you have a leak in any line, the MC will NOT supply pressure to the other two brakes. This was a big surprise to me. So both the old MC (which was not bad) and the new MC worked the same way. ??? Later VW’s dual system braking system is NOT doubly safe (as I thought).
I know that the size of the piston in the MC is larger for the rears than the front which would apparently give some proportioning to the system.
One of (the only) good things to come of all of this was that brake fluid mixes quite nicely with water and so cleanup was not too difficult.
Gotta go and put the carpet back in the drivers foot-well. Sayonara, for now.
Some of the Fiberfabs can be modified to allow folding and some not. Many/most of the windshields on Fiberfabs (and other TDr’s) have the long side brackets which extend down past the bottom of the windshield and are thru bolted into the body. I don’t know how to modify those.
I was fortunate to have the windshield mounted to a heavy cast aluminum upside down lazy T. This bracket is similar to the bracket on a “real” TD. I sat and thought about it for a few years until I figured out how I too could have a folding windscreen just like Ed. 🙂
If that is what you or your friend have, let me know and I will try to get you some detailed photos. I did post all of this stuff on this site a few years ago but am not sure if they can still be accessed. There were thousands of very good “how to” photos on our website at one time.
Only 3+/- years ago, the site was VERY active.
I will be listing it on eBay (or maybe I’ll start it low and have a reserve) for $7,000. Haven’t decided yet upon that. However if a forum member wants it, try $7,000.
Should a forum member want it, I will put you up for the night or two here at mi casa. You could probably stretch it into a couple of days and get to see historic New Bern.
About these cars in general: I owned a "real" MGTD for 16 years and I must say that the replicas are quicker, faster, quieter, more comfortable, much more trouble free, drier in the rain, AND don't require a Terminix termite contract. Plus parts are very available and inexpensive.
PLUS, there are not many questions that Paul, Ed, Schu, Bill, Jack or I can not and will not answer about TD's or TDr's.
No brag, but what’s true is true. Thanks for the endorsement Schu.
I forgot to mention that it has real knock-off wire wheels and good tires even the spare is on a wire wheel. Air horn. Very nice wood steering wheel. Badge bar. Fog light and a driving light. Pertronics distributor. The Holley Bug Spray carb is a 2 bbl with a special intake manifold and a custom air intake. New ignition wires. Comes with a good car cover. Also comes with a Brooklands Racing Screen….and a “Snoopy”-like leather flight helmet.
Roy
Well, at 77, the time has come for me to thin the herd. I know that you are looking for a BCW close to Michigan.
I have neither, but do have a very nice white Daytona MGTDr in Eastern NC (New Bern). VW drive train. It has been in numerous car shows and always draws looks. I will be listing it on eBay within a week and it will be sold with numerous spare parts and manuals. It has numerous upgrades including disc brakes, 1600cc engine, Holley carburetor, free flowing exhaust, FOLDING Windscreen (like a BCW), driving lights, a full compliment of working gauges, a tonneau, a serviceable top, two sets of wheels and tires, and a tow bar. NO RUST! I have towed it with my 2008 Mercury Mariner (same as Ford Eclipse) Carlisle PA and back to New Bern 5 times and you can easily forget that it is back behind you. I have had it for 8 years and it was rarely rained on, having spent it’s life either in my attached garage or under a cover.
I also have an extensive and complete log of work that I have done since my purchase. It came from the original owner in Florida. Factory built.
As I said, it comes with a tow bar which is super easy to install (no tools) and you don’t even get dirty. Flip it on your 1-7/8″ tow ball and be on your way. It hasn’t been licensed since 2017 but is ready to go.
Give me a call at 252 671 0067 or email me at rfhendrix@suddenlink.net for more info or pictures.
Roy
I don’t think that going to air shocks is the correct way to fix this problem. You would be able to level the car but would adversely affect handling.
I would predict that there is one or more torsion leaves in the front suspension beams that have either come loose from their grub screws or they have broken. The torsion leaves are available and are not very expensive. The work involved is described either in the “dummies” book or on Rob & Daves website. I have done it, and if you are confident in your mechanical ability and have a good toolbox, it’s doable.
Check old (circa 2011-12) postings of mine and you will see the procedure.
Welcome. This is the kind of project that we all love. Between Ed, Jack, Paul, Schu, Bill and (even) myself, we can probably answer your questions or at least steer you in the right direction. The more pictures you post, the more good responses you will get!
My only advice at this point in your build is to NOT cut/trim any of the fiberglass pieces on the scribed lines until you dry fit everything. Do not hurry at that stage. Jack and I had a very difficult time correcting the bad cuts made by a prior owner on his last winter’s project. (It was a completed chassis with no fiberglass installed.) I’m not sure (since most of the factory scribe lines were cut off) if I would trust the factory lines.
Don’t forget that “no matter how many times you cut it, you can’t make it longer”. We used (had to) about a dozen or more c-clamps and at least 6 long furniture clamps and a lot of vise grips to make a nice fit.
MG magic ( http://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/) will have the bumper mounts you mention.
Have fun.
I owned a “real” MGTF-1500 for 15 years and will say your replica is very nice. Never did like the gauge layout in the real ones. Excellent job.
I have not had a problem like you describe. However, if you do have that problem, you definitely need to get it corrected before flat towing.
I believe you are looking at a castor problem. Various suppliers sell castor shims to correct this for the VW suspension. They are inexpensive and may correct your problem. Do not attempt to flat tow if your steering does not self center after a turn. Very dangerous!
Flat Towing:
It’s really no more difficult than towing around your block, except you need to be aware of the fact that you can not back up. This may cause some problems when getting fuel. Truck stops work well.
You will be tempted to go the same speed as traffic. Do you want the top up or down? Your choice. Either way the top or the tonneau will tend to fill with air and billow up. If the top up, then you might want to run some tape up the seam where the side curtain meets the windscreen else one (and then more) of the snaps comes loose and they “unzip” and you lose a side curtain. If you tow top down with the tonneau installed, I recommend removing the toad’s steering wheel else you may wear a hole in your tonneau.
I prefer bright magnetic stop and turn signals and attach them to the toad’s bumper over-riders and then put a wrap of gorilla tape around them for security against vibrating off.
I usually pump up the toad’s tires to 28-30 psi and carry a small air compressor.
Be careful and choose a hitch receiver that allows the tow bar to be as close to level as possible favoring a slight up (from toad to tow vehicle) angle so that on emergency stops the front of the toad doesn’t try to rise. Remember that you will have NO tongue weight, so if your hitch is loose in the receiver, it will rattle and annoy you the whole trip. Wooden shims and/or tape can help to make the toad quieter.
….and I won’t repeat the good fatherly advice about toads being in neutral, emergency brake off, steering wheel unlocked, stopping distances, mirrors, practice runs around the block, gawkers, and about being able to see the toad (depending on the tow vehicle). You might be more comfortable attaching a bicycle flag to the rear bumper of the toad (if so, put it dead center on the rear bumper).
Flat towing is the way to go. I have flat towed many thousands of miles between Connecticut to Florida and countless shorter trips. Never a problem except the (old) Garden State Parkway in NJ where it was prohibited (1960’s).
That sounds ridiculous but certainly lives up to the “show-me” reputation while throwing a bucket of cold water on innovation and entrepreneurship yet keeping a few more bureaucrats on the dole.
I spent my youth scrounging around in junk yards and know that Johnny Cash’s “One Piece at a Time” surely wasn’t written about anyone from Missouri.
Sorry to hear of your dilemma…
