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All my TD’s are gone, but I still have a brand new tdreplica.com grill badge to sell
Price reduced to $20 shipped to your door.
First email to n4jee@arrl.net gets it.
Wow, 11 hours in the saddle. My butt gets sore after about 2. Good luck, I hope you don’t need the truck.
If someone wanted a hot rod, why not the 2.3L Ford. You could double the HP just by replacing it with a Turbo. Some of the articles talk about racers getting up to 750 HP out of one.
With regard to the PU: I don’t think it would be too much trouble. Replace the rear cover with a fiberglas bed or glassed plywood. If you wanted it like the picture, you’d have to cut down the back of the body. Would have to be a Chevette or Pinto based car.
Have you read the manual? I don’t know about the Chevette manual, but the Ford manual says, on page 53: “Center the running board bracket…..” My brackets (Ford) are about centered on the door.
The Ford Fiberfab and the Chevette CMC manuals are available on this site for download.
The door panels are the same leather. The straps were made out of the scraps that they gave me.
Thanks for all the kind words. One thing that I wanted to point out to anyone re-doing the upholstery. If you look closly at the pictures you will notice that the top 6 inches of the seat back has been narrowed to allow freedom of movement for the top bracket. This also allows the seat back to be adjusted forward and back without wearing or tearing the fabric. The old covering was pretty beat up in that area. It didn’t cost any more to have that change made.
I’ve got to tell you guys, the photo is the only way to go. There is no way to see that without taking off the panel. As it turned out it was the solenoid that was bad instead of the starter. Less labor, cheaper part.
Thanks again for the input.I might be interested in buying your baskets if you do replace them.
I’m just North of you in Keystone Heights.
Well, it would help if you would say what your problem is. What did the PA DMV have to say? I wouldn’t tell them about switching plates, thay take a dim view of that. I’d tell them that it’s a project that’s been in your garage and you want to be able to drive it.
The Cal Club put on some good races up and down the California coast. The Santa Barbara Junior Chamber of Commerce (Jaycees) sponsored races at the Goleta airport on Labor Day and Memorial Day weekends. It was that project that caused me to join the Jaycees and later chair the 25th running of those races in the early 60’s. The Cal Club ran the races and the Jaycees ran the event. The races stopped when Aerospacelines forced us to increase our insurance to cover their Guppie aircraft. It was a shame because Santa Barbara was popular with the racers. Some came there when they didn’t go to other races.
Thanks for posting that. I really enjoyed reading the listing. I can understand why so few were made. The engine was weak for the original car, much less the added weight of a custom body. Might do well in the unrestored class at Amelia Island.
Beautiful but:
1. Black was not an original interior color. Red, Green and Baige were the choices.
2. I believe headlight mounts should have been painted instead of chrome.
3. Not sure if door hinges should have been painted.
Larry:
Is there a trick to hooking up the speedometer cable? I wanted to have a look at the wiring to see if I would tackle a job like you did. There wasn’t enough slack, and the speedo cable was keeping me from seeing how bad a job it would be. I decided it would be a much later project and put it back together. Now the speedo doesn’t work.
If anyone is serious about it and wants it checked out, let me know. I’m an hour to an hour and a half south of there.
I took it up to the mechanic yesterday. He said that all he could do was drop the transmission and that if it were him, he’d drive it around and get it good and hot. I drove it around the shopping center parking lot across the street from the mechanic about 20 times. Stalled it a few times but still no go. I took it back to the mechanic. While he was moving it into the shop, it came unstuck
.It’s at the upholstry shop to get carpet cut and will be moved to the paint shop this afternoon. Getting the car painted Ferarri Red with Camel interior. The wife really wanted a yellow car, but since we sold the BCW locally, she decided the town was too small for two yellow MG’s.
I didn’t realize till this morning that the “Real Thing” posted over in the general forum is also from this small town. So there will be two in town the same color. Only one will be real fiberglass though.
jenkinen40277.4855555556
Well, she isn’t a member of the group. (computer challenged)
I think the green car is just one too many colors in her pallet. Also, if folks choose to think it’s the real thing, she lets them. Where as I’m more likely to put a Ford logo on it.
I have a BMC Chevette based car and a Fiberfab Pinto based car. The BCW is a much more faithful reproduction then the Fiberfab. It is also a sturdier body. I think that the only really good looking VW based kits are beach buggies, but that is a personal thing. A TD was a front engined car and I believe a replica should also. However, that being said, the bottom line is having fun with your car and a VW based kit is just as much fun as one based on Fords or Chevies. I left out Miata based cars as I believe that kit is a TF rather than a TD. I would love to have one of those, because I think the TF 1500 was the best looking car that MG ever built. Second choice would be a Ford based BCW kit.
If you’re in Florida and want to compare, come take a look. The Chevie will be for sale soon if you’re interested.
