Toller

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Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 193 total)
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  • #308981
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    The chassis serial # which is located on the on the top of the tunnel between the bucket seats (if you don’t have bucket seats you may have to remove the seat back rest)forward of the transaxel linkage access cover. You can then cross reference the number to those in this table. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308946
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Leo
    Have a read through this online forum
    http://www.vw-resource.com/index.html

    Also may want to consider buying the John Muir book How to keep your Volkswagen Alive and for more detailed explanations buy the Bentley Volkswagen Official Service Manual for the year of you VW donor

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308837
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    I bought a walnut shift knob with a metal top MG logo at Carlisle show years ago. The thread pitch and count did not match my VW shifter. Ended up drilling and cutting threads in the knob to match. Doesn’t show the shift pattern but it can confuse those trying to steal the car from finding reverse

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308816
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    If you are in US you have a number of VW parts outlets that will new carbs from a variety of manufacturers. I use CIP1 as they have a number of carbs at different price points. Another option is to buy a rebuild from Tim at Volkzbitz, many owners have spoken highly of the quality of his work

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308804
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    What carb is currently installed? As for rebuilding, would start with good cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaner with varsol to dissolve the varnish that builds up when the ethanol laced gasoline evaporates. Will also need an air compressor to blow out all the orifices in the carb. Do not use wire to try and clear blockages as invariably you may cause more problems than you are solving. If after cleaning and reassembly using a rebuild kit for the model of the carb look for any leaks of fuel or vacuum. Unless you have skill and equipment to rebush the various shafts best to have it rebuilt by pros, look for rebuilt one or lastly buy new. Lots of junk is on the market so ask what others have had success with. As for gauges, what are you looking for? There are electrical schematics in the library on this site that show how to wire them and what sensors are used. In my case I installed fuel, oil temperature, oil pressure and voltage gauges to monitor performance. I also installed GPS based speedometer and tachometer

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308753
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Only solution that worked for me was removing back of seat to remove inspection plate to access rod coupler. Removed coupler and pulled out shift rod. Installed bushing on rod bracket and then maneuvered the entire assembly back through access hole. Only real challenge was supporting rod in tunnel in order to line up bushing bracket with bolts for shifter plate. Used a combination of longer metric bolts with head cut off and wire through hole that shifter is mounted on to lift the bracket and end off the shift rod up into place. The longer metric bolts/rod has to be at least 5” long in order to reach to bottom of tunnel.

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308686
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    I have installed both in a VW 1600 engine. If you have same I can provide info and pics

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308446
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    MgMagic does carry a carpet kit but in description it is designed for Classic and Fibrefab. I went to local marina that did custom carpet and vinyl work for boats to get them to make door panels and carpet for MiGi

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308279
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    There is a serial number located on the engine case below the alternator stand. You can look up the serial number on Samba
    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php for the year of production. In some cases the chassis is not the same year as the engine. The serial number for the chassis is located on the hump in front of the inspection plate covering the shift rod coupler. You may have to remove the seat to locate the cover plate. As for the manufacturer of the kit you may find a sticker or plate on the firewall in the frunck

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308268
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Have a look in the Library section of this web site where you will find wiring diagrams for a variety of TDRs. Problem that some owners will encounter will be some cars were factory built, some were assembled by owners and as many of the cars are 30-50 years old changes and modifications may have been made so the wiring you find on your vehicle may not match the wiring diagram

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308211
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Mark, Any details on the build? I am having an 1835 built with dual Kadrons and Pertronix II igniter ignition.

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #308121
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Mark
    According to the Members Map there are 3 members who live in Phoenix. You can find their contact info on the map

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307742
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    MG Magic carries the wipers you are looking for.
    https://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/windshield-wiper-blade-8-mg-and-gazelle-ssk-each/

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307723
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Raymond
    Have a look in the Library section of this site. You will find an assembly manual for a CMC VW based TD. On page 10 the brake assembly and master cylinder are shown. You will at least see how it was put together

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307707
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Vicenç
    I missed out on a set of Brooklands at a swap meet 2 years ago. A guy had expressed interest in them with owner but had gone to find his wife. I asked about price and was quoted $50 CDN ($40USD), I offered $60 but owner would not sell until guy returned with wife.
    I believe that Moss carries the Brookland wind screens

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307705
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Were they built with the fold down windscreens? Have looked at them on Moss Motors for my Sabine but given not all components are available have had to keep the original buggy style windshield. Don’t know if is the angle of the pic but wheel base appears to be longer than FF MiGi body on chopped VW chassis. Space between steering wheel and back of seat appears to be more generous. You will have to see if you can find a Motometer for the top of the rad cap to add to the authenticity. Certainly looks to be in pristine shape but will reserve final judgement until more pics are posted

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307241
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Michael
    This is the one I installed as it serves two purposes, power outlet for charging iPhone and map light.
    https://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/dash-board-switch-lighter-map-light-trim-ring-for-wood-dash-each/

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307229
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    You don’t state the year of your donor vehicle so there may be a difference in the colour code but if the vehicle is a late 60s Beetle there should be a black and black/white wire connected to the signal switch that power the signal lights. Find the cable adapter (2) that connects the switch to the front/rear signal lights and flasher relay. Using a Volt/Ohm meter activate signal switch lever then check for voltage on the connectors. Once you have located the connector without voltage remove the wire connected to the signal switch lever. Having removed the lights and flasher from the circuit you can now verify whether there is voltage on the black or black/white wires coming from the switch. If no voltage found, given one signal light is good you know that that power is getting into the switch so only component left in circuit is momentary contact in signal switch. You can try to repair it or replace entire switch with after market one

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #307168
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Michael
    Pictures to go along with your narrative will help us understand the problem you have encountered. Also pics of the steering wheel where the plugs are missing and where the plugs are in place

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306998
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Eric, You will find a file in the Library detailing the wiring for a MiGi. Just start with one wire per switch or gauge and verify the integrity from end to end. One issue that many owners have reported is problems with the ground/earth/negative. As our cars have fibreglass bodies you have to run ground wires to each light, gauge etc. You may also want to consider replacing the VW fuse block. I used a marine grade fuse block and separated the circuits so as to make diagnostics of electrical problems easier to isolate. Last bit of advice is if you know how to use a Volt/Ohm meter then your job will be made considerably easier

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306546
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    The classic black script on white face looks like something from way back when. Tried zooming in but can not see a manufacturer mark on the face What make are they? Is the speedo a GPS model or is it a mechanical one? Unfortunate that there is not enough real estate on the dash to fit the two additional gauges you hung below the dash but understand the need for additional monitoring of performance. When I replaced my dash i opted to exclude the panel instrument cluster panel so as to accommodate oil pressure, oil temp and ammeter gauges. May still make a replica of the panel in the future but it will have to be larger than original

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306495
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Dale
    Assuming you are using a cable driven VW type of speedometer can you not just cannibalize a VW speedo and transplant the components into your defective one. Have read on either this forum or Speedster one that there is an outfit in US that can do repairs/transplants but have not bookmarked site as I use a GPS speedo. Ed is active on the Speedster site so he may be able to find it faster than I can

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306494
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Allen
    Any idea how the nut was damaged and how long you have been just adding fluid to the reservoir

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306367
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Phil
    What do you mean by issues? With shortening of the pan the following are also shortened
    Shift rod
    Fuel line
    Brake lines
    If manual transmission the clutch cable is affected
    Likewise for the throttle cable
    If reusing the VW wiring harnesses that will be slack created in wires to rear lights, coil, generator light, etc

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

    #306326
    Toller
    Participant

    @toller

    Although my TD is built on VW chassis the wiring for a horn should be similar to what you are dealing with. The horn button will close a circuit to the silver box aka horn relay and will be connected to either pin 85 or 86. When the horn button powers the relay a normally open contact will close in the relay routing power to the horn. Pins 87 or 30 will have a wire that connects to the horn. From your description of the problem and your solution it sounds like you have a bad ground to the relay (pins 85 or 86).

    David B Dixon
    Port Perry ON CA
    Sabine

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 193 total)