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Re: the beaded insulation board from the inside of the bonnet
Probably installed by a previous owner — the purpose is to separate the hot air side of the engine from the cool side.
It helps to keep the engine run cooler.
I have 5 unused wheel covers that came with my kit.
All you need to do is pay for shipping and $20.00 for my time.
Just use the standard VW Beetle cable and cut the excess length at the carburetor.
Phil
Ps. Where are you located?
This is what I used.
Quick and easy — fits right on the top of the carb.
Phil
Unfortunately, southern Cal is a VERY long drive from the west coast of Canada and those of us that still have to work cannot justify the time required. I have driven it only twice, it is quicker and much more comfortable on a commercial aircraft.
We will be at a conference in Newport in mid April but doubt I will have time to meet anyone on that trip.
I think it is a great idea to try and get together.
PhilKentT wrote:PMOSSBERG wrote:If I was doing it all over again, I think I would use an early VW steering column (without the key), reomve the VW turn signal lever, and use something like this:This is what I did on mine. I thought that I would remember to manually
cancel the signal but after finding the signal still flashing a block
or two later too many times I added a low volume buzzer into the circuit
and wrapped some foam rubber around it to make it just audible.
PhilI suggest you do it. Now is the best time. You will not be sorry. You likely will be sorry if you don’t.
PhilMymgtd wrote:I have I it all loose now and just need to disconnect some wire and lift it off. Will I have to do any modification to full new floor pan other than just some trimming.Has any one gone with other methods of attaching other than welding. Such as rivets or screws? And will a mig welder do the job.
I used a mig welder and found it did a good job but only after using a heavy piece of steel as a heat sink placed on the thin floor pan next to where I was welding.
Mine is the same as newkitman — along the right side of the passenger (right) side with the rest of the wiring harness under the inner fiberglass flange. If I remember correctly that is where the manual says to route it.
Phil” And still looking for that M10-1.25 coupler for my brake pedal assembly.”
I suggest the easiest way would be to take it to a welder.I separated the cold air side of the engine from the hot side. I don’t think the temp gauge has ever registered above 210
What fence?
It’s “The longest undefended border in the world.” But I would not recommend trying to cross it without going thru the proper access points. Both the Canadian and American authorities take that kind of activity VERY seriously.Usually when you see a fence it is there to keep the farmer’s livestock in. When there is a parallel road on the other side of the border there is a shallow ditch between — Nothing that would stop a 4X4 though.
I live in south west British Columbia in Canada. The road is in Canada, the field on the other side is in the USA.
This car is located about 30 minutes from me. If someone is interested, I could try to go see it for them.
PhilThanks— The answers confirm what I was suspecting. The ride height is fine — so will not remove any leaves.
Fiber Fab kit
The tubes were cut, turned and then rewelded in their new positionNo adjusters.Had a little issue last night on the freeway.– The end of the left front spindle broke off. So a question since I have the front end apart can I get away with removing any of the torsion leaves to soften the ride if I have cut and turned the tube during construction as per the instruction manual. (This site did not exist when I was doing the build) Thanks for your input.
PhilI got my wipers to park correctly by inserting a diode into the park circuit of the motor.
PhilThe cars I have owned — You guys have me beat several times over.
1962 Ford Anglia replaced about two years later with a more reliable–
1974 VW Beetle
1990 Honda Civic
1997 Toyota Camry — Still Driving it.
Garage kept, well maintained and well built cars can last a long time.
Measure 5 times cut once.
Measure 5 times tack weld — measure again and complete your weld. I had a professional do the welding — you do not want that weld to fail when you hit a bump in the road.
I did all the before measuring in my garage and then cut off the old one then took it to the shop — the guy was great and let me have the use of one of his bays while I did the set up.
I started with getting everything perfectly level positoned the new frame head and then carefully confirmed that all the measurements were exactly what they were with the old frame head.— front to back right and left and diagonals.
Hope this gives an idea of the process.
When the car was finished and I took it to the wheel alignment shop they checked the wheel base right and left and the tracking and everything was up to specs.
Phil
Mine are installed — good thing too because within 6 weeks of putting it on the road a lady backed into me and only bent the bumper support bracket. I am sure that that light bump would have put a dent in that brand new 25 year old bumper if the back bar was not installed.
