Keen to see those wheels, Russ. What are they from?Also, you might check into the original MG hubcaps. I believe they were held on by steel clips that were affixed somehow to the wheels. Moss has ’em for $25 each and the Bay has ’em too from time to time.Good luck.

Mike,
I did take a chance on a used one on the bay and was able to install it on my Fiberfab replica. It worked fine front to back and side to side, but was short at the door area ( at the dip down area ). I had my wife sew on a flap and rite died the whole thing black. Have been using it for about 2 years. It is the full type w/ a zipper up the…[Read more]

Geoff,
Just came back from vacation and saw your post – I live about 40 miles south of DC on 95 – Stafford area. We can hook up when you get here – love to have someone to cruise with

Welcome, sir! I can already see you have some skills with the wrench and the torch. I’m here to tell you they’re more useful than the keyboard variety–don’t let anyone tell you different.

both those mills look good enough to eat off of. I totally gotta up my game.

Cool! 

Our cars tend to be a little bigger than the originals. Not saying I know it won’t fit, but for the money I’d buy a bolt of vinyl or canvas, a big zipper and some snaps from somewhere like this and make the thing myself. Or try to get my wife to do it.

Thanks, guys. FYI, yeah, this is a ’69 Beetle beam, ball joints. I got those shims in my shopping cart at CIP1. The rust damage seems minor–just a sheet metal “skin” between the beefier parts. Might just epoxy those shims in there and call it good. Still pondering the bushing v. bearing question. Seems so easy to just buy that $30 urethane…[Read more]

Thanks, Richard.I got the sway bar off. Turns out the bushing holders for those are two-piece construction.Problem now is, bushings or bearings? People say those urethane buggers squeak. The Speedster guys have an elaborate fix for that involving double-tapping the bushings for zirks; I’d rather just go with the OE stuff if possible.But is it…[Read more]

Man after my own heart. Very hard to get just the right “patina” on stuff as you change it.

egauges has those new. In my case though, I’m going with the VDO voltmeter in place of my non-working Amps (“Dynamo”) gauge from Classic Instruments. Easier hookup & arguably better functionality–though admittedly not as classic.BTW, Craigo, what are you running that needs a 10k tach?!

Lower photo looks to be the money shot, but I can’t make out the details.

Ahh, projects! I’m still as new to this as you are, Rich, and I wonder what you mean by “dual port posts.”You’re talking about the mounts for the carbs? The carbs fit on them but the whole engine is then too wide to fit under your engine cover?Maybe you could post a photo of what you’re looking at. Some of the real mechanics here can school us both.

Nice!

If too big, no problem though, right? Stock Bug tank holds what? About 8-10 gallons? So that’s 250-350 miles. Unless Bridget was doing the Paris-Dakar Rally (again) I’d not see much need for a 16 gallon tank.

That looks good. But I would maybe check to make sure it will fit under the TD hood. It looks like it might be a little thicker/taller than a stock tank. I wonder if the good folks at CIP1 will tell you the dimensions.

I’ve got Grundy. No complaints, but no claoims, and I went to them with a clear MD title in hand. They’re all classic, rod, kit, home-built though and so should be generally familiar with your situation.

Welcome Shane. And welcome the long posts. I, for one, enjoy them. I know you’ll finish this car; it will be work, there will be setbacks, but it will be worth it. Good luck and have fun. We’ll back you up.

But if you’re always driving it, when can you find time to work on it?

Good on ya, Roland. Welcome to the group.