Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Wow, I did not know there was such a problem with e bay.
I have listed my MGTD again — and I will not have any friends bidding — I did set a reserve that was lower than I hoped it would sell for — but who knows. If anyone is interested — please come by and see it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& ;item=300540018744&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESEL X%3AIT
I am getting more realistic about what the market might be for a front engine (Chevette) 4 Speed, that is essentially ‘new’. I am asking $8,000.00 OBO Call me if interested 850 240 0941. Thanks, Bill
I have American classic cars for insurance— they seem very good — check them out about the surety bond.
I was going to PM “JWT693 “– to get some info on their trailer — but they must not still be a member –or maybe they changed their file name.
Thanks for all of the input. I decided to remove the air pump system. The L shaped hose fit then —- I did need to get a new smaller fan belt. Total fix — less than $15.00. All is well — Thanks
JUST INFO: The reason I needed a new lower hose was because the fan blades were actually hitting the side of the hose at high RPM — Yesterday I had driven to Pensacola ( 60 miles away ) to get the car inspected for a title (That was done). This was the longest drive I had been on and the car only had 104 miles on it when I left the house. On the way back–water showed up on my windshield — the instruments were fine –But I pullled off the road imediately. Found the leak. Let it cool down.
Walked to Walmart — bought a box cutter knife to trim the 7 fan blades, electrical tape, and a gallon of water.
After two unsuccessful tape wrapping tries to stop the leak—I finally got it stopped. Topped the water off again left the radiator cap at the first detent -so the pressure would not build, and drove away. I stopped and checked for leaks about 10 miles down the road — NO LEAKS ( I was pleasently surprised) I checked again at 25 miles and 40 miles. When I arrived at home there still NO LEAKS. This morning- no leaks.
Guess what I’m adding to my emergency tool kit.
NewKitMan Thanks for the comment. The wheels came with the kit parts — they are WESTERN after market wheels with a spoke look ( I do not know the model) the tires are 195/75 tubeless.
Junkman — In Florida — I need to have a court order to direct the DMV to title the car even though the MCO ( or MSO) is lost. I have moved forward with the civil law suit against the DMV to get the court order. The filing fee was $400. and $40 more for the Sheriff to serve the papers on the DMV. Now I have to wait 20 days — if the DMV does not object ( I am led to believe that they will not), then the Judge will read my complaint and IF he agrees — he will direct the DMV to issue the title. Then, I will file for the title using the court order as authority, take it to be inspected and then IF EVERYTHING IS FINE — I should get a title , registration and plate –after paying the normal fees of 7% tax plus about $300 in title , registration and plate fees.
I hope to be driving it by the end of October.
I did trailer it to a show and won second place in the OTHER catagory.
Good luck to you — maybe SC is like Florida –or maybe — the VW chassis thing might work.
Allen, The MSO is the Certificate of Origin from the Manufacturer of the kit, or frame, …. Fiberfab did issue MSOs when their kits were sold—however many of the kits that have sat around ( like yours and mine) do not have the MSO with them anymore. For Florida — that means NO TITLE WITHOUT A COURT ORDER. I have checked with a Florida lawyer that deals with these things and he has told me the formate that the filings have to be in — and recommended that I file myself ( and save the fee) . So I will be filing — next week or so.
I have checked in Georgia ( I have relatives in Georgia – and was going to give it to one of them to register) –and found that they also list the MSO as a required document. But I also called one of the inspectors that work for the State –He ( Nigel Healey –404 925 7728 ) was very helpful and gave me the details about the inspection process. Then I told him that I did not have the MSO –he said that Georgia may require that I get a Surety Bond ( about $100-150), but he said that it could be registered. I recommend that you give him a call when you have all of the other paperwork in place — ( on the web http://www.motor.etax.dor.ga.gov –get MV-1, T-129, T-22R, MV-100 are the ones that I found that apply) —
Good luck
Not too long ago the Fiberfab web page had an area for ordering a new brass plate. I would call them to see if they still have some —
The President of the new Fiberfab is very helpful — but does not have old records and can not replace MSOs.
Is my price in line or too high? I have not gotten much action — but I do not know if its timing or the price. What I think it is worth — may not be too relavent. Please advise Thanks, Bill
I added an interior shot and a shot of the odometer — which shows the type of gauges that are installed.
Has anyone used or even contacted a company that helps you get a title?? The web lists GNT Get New Title —Any experiece with it or others??????
Larry, Thanks for the comments. I am really the forth owner. The first owner ( I’ve been told) was a guy named Bill Kelly, who lived in New England somewhere when he bought the kit and then moved to Norcross ( or Duluth ) Georgia with the kit ( he had built it to a rolling Chassis state — but there is no paperwork on the donor car). He sold it in about 2003 to Roger Preston in Georgia. I’ve talked with him and he does not think he got any Cert of Origin or anything like that. At any rate he sold “EVERYTHING” to a woman who lived near him– in 2009 and she gave me all of the paperwork she got from him. NO actual lists from CMC or Fiberfab.
If anyone knows a Bill Kelly from New England or Georgia — I would like to try to talk with him.
I have talked with the President of the current Fiberfab– who said that his records only go back to about 2003.
What does the Cert of Origin look like — is it simply a receipt or some real official title type document?
Added information:
The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the short running board piece is 13 in rear and 14 in the front. The height to the top of the shock brace is 23 3/4.
I knew that the book called for 4 specific coil springs (362193ATD ) and specific shocks (TRW 80822 for the front and TRW 80802 for the rear). The rolling chassis part was completed when I got the car. Since I could nlot find any markings on the springs and the shocks were new ( RED ) I just moved ahead. I will be getting it on a lift soon — and for the first time be able to give it a very good look. Are there any varifying marks on the springs?
Since I may be changing the springs and shocks — WHAT ARE THE CORRECT HEIGHT MEASUREMENT??? What should I try to get to?
billsflorida40413.6141203704
Thanks Dan — do you have pictures?
I use seat belts to hold me into position so I can control the car ( just as I did in aircraft) It does not likely help much in a teeth, hair and eye balls crash.
MIne is purely a mechanical cable hook up. It would screw into the trans and run up front –then back through the fire wall and into the back of the gauge. The “VINTAGE” guage has a threaded shaft to connect to. Also it came with an adapter kit which allows what is called a push in type of connection. The length would likely to be about 65 inches.
Hawk521,
I like the idea of simplifying the engine and compartment — but did your PO just unplug the computer or did he set some “Nuetral” settings or something for the computer controlled feads? I
I’m not an engine or computer expert — but I would think the computer did something.
I am on the road and will not be able to try anything until I get home in early August.
I would like any input anyone has while I am on the road — so I can jump into it when I get back.
Thanks, Bill
Thanks for the input. I wondered whether this running board was more for style — than function. I would not have stepped on it — but others may try.
Thanks 1oldbuzz and Ringo,
I remembered seeing something like that in one of the boxes — so I went digging. I found them. I was thinking that the spacer would be round and more plyable.
Thanks also for the quick reply.
billsflorida40314.5074537037
